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Thread: Vectra 1.8 heating/cooling problems

  1. #1
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    Default Vectra 1.8 heating/cooling problems

    My Vectra C 1.8 petrol has always ran very cold since I bought it - the temperature only ever gets near 90c when in traffic and most of the time when driving at speed on a cool day it doesn't even register on the needle i.e. less than 70c. I thought this may be down to the thermostat sticking open so for what it was worth I replaced the thermostat yesterday. The underheating situation didn't change at all, it behaved exactly as before, which leads me to my first question - is this just a characteristic of this car and nothing to worry about? I tested the old thermostat in boiling water and it did open and close when cooled.
    However, I now have a new problem, the interior heater only blows really hot air regardless of the dial setting. I thought maybe I'd caused a fuse to blow as there was obviously water being released into the engine bay when I changed the thermostat, but I've checked all relevant fuses and they're ok. The job went well and I didn't disturb anything other than what I had to. I would really appreciate any help on this one, thanks...

  2. #2
    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRI 150

    Trim : Smart and Bad!

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 105000

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    Air lock? Water Pump ?

    Take glove box off, look on side of center and u'll see red lever. Turn heating dial to cold and back to hot. Does it move?

    If yes, shine torch through air housing slightly above the top of red lever. U'll see a hint of the flaps moving. If it dont move. Thats ur issue...

    If motor dont move, then unplug the arm from top of lever. Use something like screw driver. Pop it out. It wont break... Then move that hole and see if it gets cold as u close the flap by hand.
    Last edited by SlowCoach; 5th December 2012 at 14:32.

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    Thanks for the help, will give that a go at the weekend. Maybe it was just a coincidence that when I changed the thermostat the heaters stop working properly, I was hoping it was something silly I had done wrong. Thanks.

  4. #4
    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRI 150

    Trim : Smart and Bad!

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 105000

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    If u done thermostat housing then it's airlock. Disconnect flow hose to heating matrix, top one and connect to hosepipe and flush it out. Then reconnect, top up with coolant and open bleed valve til water comes out, close it, leave expansion vessel open and start car with heat dial on hot fan on 1, run til hot air start to blow out, open bleed valve once more then close once coolant expel from there, then wait idle til temp reach 80, close expansion vessel (cap) check heat in car.

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    That sounds promising, I'll def give that a go, thanks. Silly question, where exactly is the bleed valve located?

  6. #6
    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRI 150

    Trim : Smart and Bad!

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 105000

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    Its black plastic in centre of long pipe in front of engine next to radiator. Mine broke, i fitted m10 bolt onto it. 1 half inch length. Its just under plastic engine cover in front!

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    Engine : Z18XER


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    He has not got bleed screw on that engine. Best bet is to drain and refill SLOWLY to allow air to come out

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    Regular Member veclee's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra c

    Trim : club

    Engine : 1800

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 63000

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    Just reading this no one has answered the engine temp question as I'm curios of the engine temp cos mine only reaches 80 before dropping to around 73ish but takes around 3 miles to get to
    this

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    Quote Originally Posted by veclee View Post
    Just reading this no one has answered the engine temp question as I'm curios of the engine temp cos mine only reaches 80 before dropping to around 73ish but takes around 3 miles to get to
    Your stat is knacked

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    Will have a go at releasing the air lock one way or another today. With the under heating issue, I've changed the thermostat already (hence the airlock) but this didnt cure the problem. Admittedly it wasn't a new one and I didn't test it first, but I did test the old one and it opened and closed when heated/cooled. Is the stat supposed to completely stop the flow of water when cold - I held the stat (the side with the springs) under the cold tap and although it was 'closed', the water was still able to pass to the other side which didn't seem right to me. Does anyone know how to correctly test the specific stat fitted to my car before I go and buy a third one?

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