anyway to do the timing belt without timing tool

[valvelift]

are there any marks on the vectra c engines at all? ive heard you need the timing tools? waste of 50 quid if you ask me for something so daft,

are these engines not marked?

[alcutler]

You don't have to use tools - in theory you can remove the old belt while the cogs are in any position - as long as you don't move them once the belt is off and replace the new belt again without moving the cogs.

[4ndy]

There are markings but if you make your own marks before you start, don't move anything while you change it and all the marks line up when you're done then the timing kit isn't necessary.

That's what I did when I changed mine. I made 2 marks on each component just to be on the safe side.

[ronnie63]

timing tools are for girls

use the howto on here, is it the 150 cdti

[gixerjd]

peice of **** without the tools fella just keep an eye on the pulleys when adjusting the tensioner as it can pull them out a tooth

[jonnyaykroyd]

Timing tools are not not essential though can speed up the job and give piece of mind. Marking (if there are no factory marks) however is essential in my opinion.

If you were to un-tension and remove the belt at any old position then chances are the cams will want to move on their own due to position of the cam lobes and valve spring pressure acting on them.

On some engines, the inlet valves start to open just before TDC and therefore even positioning the engine at TDC before you remove the belt is no guarantee that the cam sprocket for the inlet wont move back a few degrees - then in the case of a DOHC petrol you're exhaust and inlet are a tooth out!

I did a belt on a C4 DOHC engine the other day. All 3 sprockets were marked in relation to cam and crank case and even the new belt came with three marks that could be positioned with the marks on the sprockets.....SO EASY!!! Why all belts and engines aren't made this simple I don't know!

[alcutler]

Timing tools are not not essential though can speed up the job and give piece of mind. Marking (if there are no factory marks) however is essential in my opinion.

If you were to un-tension and remove the belt at any old position then chances are the cams will want to move on their own due to position of the cam lobes and valve spring pressure acting on them.

On some engines, the inlet valves start to open just before TDC and therefore even positioning the engine at TDC before you remove the belt is no guarantee that the cam sprocket for the inlet wont move back a few degrees - then in the case of a DOHC petrol you're exhaust and inlet are a tooth out!

I did a belt on a C4 DOHC engine the other day. All 3 sprockets were marked in relation to cam and crank case and even the new belt came with three marks that could be positioned with the marks on the sprockets.....SO EASY!!! Why all belts and engines aren't made this simple I don't know!

That's very true - I did a Corsa 1.7dti the other day which is a doddle to do - you lock the pulleys with bolts to prevent them moving and there are clear marks on the crankshaft pulley. I didn't lock the crankshaft and was surprised when fitting the new belt how easily it moved a couple of teeth of it's own accord - was easily corrected but tools are very useful and clear marks are essential as said above

[rich r]

I tend to make my own markings too, in addition to any moulded ones. It is important to work out which way to turn the camshafts to ensure you don't force the valves to clash though on some engines.

Another trick if the pulleys don't have flanges is to slice the old belt down the middle then cut one half and remove it (so it's half the width it was). Now put the new belt half on the pulleys. Cut the remaining bit of the old belt and slide the new belt on fully. The half old belt holds the pulleys fixed relative to each other, so there's no chance of slippage.

[alcutler]

I tend to make my own markings too, in addition to any moulded ones. It is important to work out which way to turn the camshafts to ensure you don't force the valves to clash though on some engines.

Another trick if the pulleys don't have flanges is to slice the old belt down the middle then cut one half and remove it (so it's half the width it was). Now put the new belt half on the pulleys. Cut the remaining bit of the old belt and slide the new belt on fully. The half old belt holds the pulleys fixed relative to each other, so there's no chance of slippage.

That's an old trick that works if you are just replacing the belt - but won't work if you want to replace the idler pulley (s) and the tensioner to change them and no one in their right mind would just replace the belt only, relying on the old tensioner being ok

[rich r]

This is very true. Though it does of course depend on the engine as to whether you need to replace the tensioner or not (generally older engines with decent chunky metal tensioners driven off oil pressure rather than modern flimsy spring loaded plastic efforts )