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Thread: Vectra 150 Resistance when driving...DMF/EGR?

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    Cool Vectra 150 Resistance when driving...DMF/EGR?

    Hi Guys,
    New to this so bear with me.
    Bought '08 150 bhp vectra last month.Brilliant car ...until now.
    Had 120k miles up wen I bought it, now has over 123 k, clutch/dmf has never being changed before as far as I know.I knew this buying the car so was allowed this in the price.I know it will have to be done sooner than later.But no rattle from it so far and seems ok changing gears...
    Anyway was driving the car Friday,Everything seemed fine until suddenly I Felt a very strong resistance as I drove.
    Initially I thought it was a flat tyre...All tyres hard.
    Then maybe sticking brake callipers..No issue there either.
    This 'resistace' is quiete noticable now and seems especially strong under 2,000 rpm..When I leave the car 'coast' in neutral or accelerate very hard I dont seem to feel it as bad.
    What may be my issue?Going to clean the EGR valve tonight as a precaution would this be tell tail signs of a blocked egr valve the symptoms I have described above??Or is it dmf trouble??

    Thanks In Advance!

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    Have you cleaned your EGR, including checking that the solenoid valve is free moving? If so, has this fixed it?

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    Hi DieselWig,

    Im going to clean it this evening after work,fingers crossed that is the problem!
    Ill post again after thats done,wouldnt mind taking off the inlet manifold and giving that a good clean too..
    A job for the holidays!

    DieselNut

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    I would forget the DMF, it's not rattling so isn't a concern (even if it were rattling I have never known of them to fail - mine rattled for 120k). For that reason I wouldn't be shelling out for onw. I would check the vacuum pipes for the turbo actuator, they are prone failing and are a cheap fix but can cause havoc along the lines you describe.

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    Is the swirl valve rail sat where it should be or has it come off?? Sure sign of it having come off is lack of power under 2k revs. Mine was a pig until I did a modification to it.

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    Hi Guys,
    Thanks for the replies.I cleaned the EGR valve over the weekend with carb cleaner and
    then lubricated all the moving parts.Words cant describe the difference this has made to the car
    when driving!! Previously when driving at a constatnt speed it felt as if a brake
    was being constantly applied.Now its the opposite,you can feel the engine ready to pounce with
    power once the accelerator is pressed.
    It did not seem to badly gummed up with carbon etc but id say lubricating the moving
    pins was the biggest help.The inlet manifold is probably full of carbon and sludge as well judging by
    the state of inlet port from the egr valve...Its next on my list of jobs to take apart and clean...
    I asume its straight forward enough just time consuming??
    Swirl Valve rod is attatched and working for all the flaps...although it seems loose enough on the connections
    to ecah flap.Is this expected?

    Regards,
    DieselNut

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    Good news, thought it would be the EGR. I would now at least disconnect the EGR (unplug it) or ideally blank it entirely and get it mapped out. If you don't fancy the cost of mapping (£200ish maybe) then at least disconnecting it helps reduce the amount of soot getting into the inlet manifold. You will get the spanner light followed by the emissions light, so you would need to re-connect and clear the fault before MOT.

    It's not easy to clean out the inlet manifold though. To do it properly you would need to remove it which is a big job. Leaving the EGR connected and working will eventually cause the swirl valves to stick and the bar to fall off; how soon will depend on your driving habits. A new manifold is expensive and labour intensive so I would suggest blanking as soon as possible.

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    Car went fine for about 300 miles after initial clean then same story again,so took off EGR recleaned and
    now going ok so far again.Will just plug the ****** thing out tonight altogether!
    What a disaster of a design!What actually causes the power to drop so signifigantly once
    the egr gets sooted up?My EGR was probably cleaned many times before
    my ownership as it had the hole aready drilled for me to push out the soleind pin.Maybe its just worn out...think it has approx 25,000 miles covered.
    On the second cleaning it seemed clean enough and the soleinid also
    seemed free...I was surprised with the sot build up after such a short time though.
    I just dont get why it causes such a drastic reduction in power!
    Will definitely clean the manifold over christmas,I know its a big job but I feel
    it should be done judging by the state of the
    port where the exhaust gas enters the inlet manifold....
    The day job is mechanical engineering so I love gettings the hands dirty anyway!

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    Your EGR shouldn't be badly sooted again after so few miles, unless lubricating the moving parts has caused the soot to stick maybe - I haven't bothered with the lubrication in the past, just cleaned it up well and even after several thousand miles I wouldn't expect significant build up. Depends on your driving style though as well.
    Maybe a load of soot has just blown through from the connecting pipes, but I wonder if your exhaust gas is not as clean as it should be - has your fuel consumption increased recently or do you get more smoke from the exhaust than before? May be nothing to do with this, but as an engineer you'll appreciate that sometimes you're treating the symptom but the cause remains.

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