coming from the turbo, happens between 1700 and 2000 revs
sounds like a police siren, it only seems to do it when the engine has warmed up though
no smoke or anything
its a vectra cdti 16v
coming from the turbo, happens between 1700 and 2000 revs
sounds like a police siren, it only seems to do it when the engine has warmed up though
no smoke or anything
its a vectra cdti 16v
The bronze sleeve is dead. Did you notice you were consuming more oil lately ?
As long as the axle has no play, you'll still be able to save it using a refurbishing kit. But don't way too long, or your turbines will end up striking the gousing and brake - and you'll be sorry if metal parts reach the cylinders.
My variable geometry vanes were also completely stuck, so I changed the whole turbo (found a reasonable priced Garrett on eBay UK) and a kit. I'll clean up and repair the old one when I've got time, but it should be done, as the axle has no play at all, it's just hard to spin. I couldn't wait for the car to stay immobilized for too long. I'll have a spare turbo handy for the next time, that is approximately in 9 1/2 years in the new one lives as long as the first one...
Oh, and I'm not losing any oil anymore.
On the other hand, I also had a crankcase pulley that broke a bit later after having replaced the turbo, and it should have had problems correctly driving the accessories belt for years, making the engine becoming hotter than necessary, so I'm not really sure the turbo broke because the engine was getting too hot and the breather allowed too much hot oil to get out of the crankcase, lowering the overall pressure, or I was losing oil because the turbo sleeve was worn.
In any case, after changing the turbo, you should also look for potential other problems related to cooling and lubrication, as otherwise it might shorten your new turbo's life. Anyway, if you killed your turbo, then your car isn't probably a yougster, so have all the engine checked for other possible failures to come.
I went from having to add 10 litres oil a month to nothing, so the car really got a new youth after having changed just a pulley and a turbocharger...
Thing is my car uses no oil at all, dosnt overheat or anything
im guessing I can remove the boost pipe and check for play in the shaft?
Yes you can. Also check for being able to spin it with your fingers.
You'll check for axial play (front-back) and radial play (wobble it and check if it has any side play).
Mine had none of them, but was very hard to spin. Hence the whining...
I had one of them every time I put my foot down. Turned out it was the missus.
Well, I advise you search the web for "VNT turbo repair". You'll find a lot of YouTube tutorial videos, for instance.
The turbocharger is in two parts : exhaust side and intake side.
Once you've unbolted the exhaust side snail, all the remaining parts are held together by a unique nut on the axle.
You'll have to replace the sleeve that holds the axle and receives the pressurized oil film that allows the axle to spin, and to clean up the variable geometry vanes you'll discover after having removed the exhaust half.
The refurbishing package contain washers, rubber seals, bronze sleeve, screws, nut, circlips... You should find one specific for your turbocharger family on the web. I think yours is a Garrett GT17 VNT (to be confirmed according to your engine type : Z19DT or Z19DTH).
LMFAO
Last edited by Z80; 15th November 2012 at 00:31.
wont it need re-balanced after that?
i see you can buy fully assembled turbo cartdridges
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-1...item3a7bad0898
would these need re balanced?
Or you could start with something simple like checking for split boost pipes
Have you done the air box mod? mine is lound due to the extra air being drawn into the engine
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