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Thread: Actuator link rod

  1. #1
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    Default Actuator link rod

    Has anyone disconnected the link rod from the manifold motor to the swirl flap?? I was just wondering how easy this was. I have glued all the flaps (bar no.3) but whilst it still moves as it should, the bearing is goosed and it moves up and down as well as left and right so I am losing boost. I want to glue this one shut, but need to disconnect the link rod so that it doesnt throw up any fault lights (so motor keeps working but doesnt actually turn anything). Had a quick look whilst under the car but the motor seems to be lost deep in the back of the engine.

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    Although i know it's not visible from the top of the engine i do know a few have managed to do this

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    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    Although i know it's not visible from the top of the engine i do know a few have managed to do this
    I thought it might be a case of either locating it from under the car or using a mirror from the top so that you can then locate it and guide your hand in!! I can see from an earlier post which included the Pierburg bulletin regarding the manifold there was a handy photo of the part so I can see what I am trying to locate but there seem to be a lot of peripherals in the way!!

    Will have a look this weekend whilst I am changing the oil.

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    Vehicle : saab 93 tid(150)

    Trim : sport

    Engine : 1.9 z19dth

    Year : 2005

    Mileage : 63000

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    Quote Originally Posted by sri150 View Post
    Has anyone disconnected the link rod from the manifold motor to the swirl flap?? I was just wondering how easy this was. I have glued all the flaps (bar no.3) but whilst it still moves as it should, the bearing is goosed and it moves up and down as well as left and right so I am losing boost. I want to glue this one shut, but need to disconnect the link rod so that it doesnt throw up any fault lights (so motor keeps working but doesnt actually turn anything). Had a quick look whilst under the car but the motor seems to be lost deep in the back of the engine.
    I'd like to know how easy it is to disconnect aswel as ive also bonded 1,2+4, might aswel do number 3 until i get a new inlet

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    Would you not want to glue it in the open position?

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    Quote Originally Posted by wickedwillie View Post
    Would you not want to glue it in the open position?
    Yep, thats what I meant - need to bond it in the 10 o'clock position - , just like 1, 2 and 4!!

  7. #7
    Regular Member OzMoSiS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1.9 CDTi

    Year : 2006

    Mileage : 140k

    Default

    bumping this one.

    I want to know how to check to see if the actuator link bar on my manifold has been disconnected or not. How would I do this? Thanks

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    Vehicle : vectra i

    Trim : sri

    Engine : 1.9 cdti 150

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    Quote Originally Posted by OzMoSiS View Post
    bumping this one.

    I want to know how to check to see if the actuator link bar on my manifold has been disconnected or not. How would I do this? Thanks
    Start the car and get someone to rev it , if the actuator is still connected you will see the swirl flaps move , even if the bar that connects them all is off or missing , number 3 should still move

  9. #9
    Regular Member OzMoSiS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1.9 CDTi

    Year : 2006

    Mileage : 140k

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    What I would like to know, is if no3 does not move, then is it due to the rod being disconnected, or due to the motor being seized?

    As far as I have checked, no3 does not move, but that in itself does not mean that the motor has seized.

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    If motor is seized it will flag a fault and put into limp mode (as did on mine)
    Chance the swirl itself has snapped on bottom or inside.

    Swirl 3 won't move as link is attached still or seized inside manifold.
    To see link it's easiest pull off the EGR and look down back of engine, thru a small gap against engine you will see the plastic link few inches down.
    Get large flat screwdriver and twist if you want to disconnect it, pushing etc didn't work.

    Then clean n glue in position.
    I didn't disconnect the link originally just doing 1,2 & 4. Crud build up then took out swirl 3 and motor seized.
    Only fix is new manifold or remap, went remap and also had egr sorted

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