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  1. #1
    Regular Member Brocks's Avatar
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    Default Photography forums

    Can anyone recommend a good forum where I can get tips on why my phots don't come out how I want em and so on....

    I've found a couple already but they're very small.

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    Regular Member POAH's Avatar
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    there are photography forums all over the place. some are good like on pistonheads some are bad like dpreview or potn. generally a lot of the foprums don;t care unless you have a dSLR too and most are populated with stupid americans. try http://www.photographycorner.com always found it to be good

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    Regular Member Brocks's Avatar
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    It's seams quite good mate thanks!

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    [Ex]Admin Duncan's Avatar
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    I came across this forum a long while back - http://www.pixalo.com - when I was searching for a specific issue about the Canon EOS 5D. It had a different name back then and changed due to some internal wrangling with the person that first started it and so the other admin relaunced it under that new name.

    I haven't visited it since, I can't even recall if they had the answer to the query I had, but I signed up as I needed to to be able to see the relevant sections but haven't posted. Maybe worth a look around?

    I don't really look at photography forums as they're not normally my cup of tea, but that one from memory didn't look too bad.

    BTW. you can always give me a shout if you have any specific problems/queries and I'll see if I can help.

    HTH

    D

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    Regular Member Brocks's Avatar
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    Thanks D.

    I see the pictures I wanna take in me head but I can't set the camera up to get it right. I want to get to some classes but I'm gonna be away with work for the next 3 months so classes are a no no for now. Hence the serch for a forum.

    My last example was on Saturday,

    I was down at Eastham Ferry on a very grey and murky day. I could barely see the other side of the Mersey. There was dredger going up and down the river and against the misty backdrop it looked quite erie.

    I thought a slow shutter speed (2-4 seconds) to make the water look like glass (an effect I saw in a magazine) and an appature of F8 would make the ship stand out against an almost whied out background...kind of an opposite silhouette.

    The result a completey White picture. No ship no nothing! What I'm lookin for is a way to shoot long shutter speeds in day light to give a time lapse effect! When i speeded up the shutter All I got was a hormal shot of a ship in the water. No bluring of the water!

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    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    A 4 second shutter will FLOOD the exposure
    This is only really suitable for NIGHT photography, and can give spectacular results (fireworks, etc)

    A long exposure on water surfaces sadly doesn't give a glass effect, but more a very white salt look
    You really need to be above the water level by about 30 degrees to get a glass (clear) effect, but the surface would have to have no swell of any kind

    For a time lapse, what you want is shutter override
    This allows multiple photos on the same exposure
    You then divide the number of shots into the exposure
    So lets say you want to take 10 shots
    Set the F number for the shot, you would normally use 1/5th second
    You would then take 10 shots of 1/50th of a second
    However, if the ship is moving, it may overlap, but the static objects will be perfect

    Finally, you MUST use a tripod for that!

    An alternative is to use an open shutter technique
    You set the exposure to 60 seconds
    You then setup as before for an ordinary shot
    You then take a THICK piece of card and place it over the lens
    You then briefly take it away, then replace it
    You watch the scenery move, then repeat taking the card off the lens and then replace
    This is a very crude method, but with practice also gives good results
    You can also create ghosts with this technique!

  7. #7
    Regular Member Brocks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m8internet View Post
    A 4 second shutter will FLOOD the exposure
    This is only really suitable for NIGHT photography, and can give spectacular results (fireworks, etc)

    A long exposure on water surfaces sadly doesn't give a glass effect, but more a very white salt look
    You really need to be above the water level by about 30 degrees to get a glass (clear) effect, but the surface would have to have no swell of any kind

    For a time lapse, what you want is shutter override
    This allows multiple photos on the same exposure
    You then divide the number of shots into the exposure
    So lets say you want to take 10 shots
    Set the F number for the shot, you would normally use 1/5th second
    You would then take 10 shots of 1/50th of a second
    However, if the ship is moving, it may overlap, but the static objects will be perfect

    Finally, you MUST use a tripod for that!

    An alternative is to use an open shutter technique
    You set the exposure to 60 seconds
    You then setup as before for an ordinary shot
    You then take a THICK piece of card and place it over the lens
    You then briefly take it away, then replace it
    You watch the scenery move, then repeat taking the card off the lens and then replace
    This is a very crude method, but with practice also gives good results
    You can also create ghosts with this technique!
    Thanks m8!

    I take these are film techniques....Exposing the same frame 10 times etc....?

    I'm shooting in Digital (Fuji S9600, Manfrotto Tripod and head) and the ship was moving all be it slowly. I was at about 30 degrees as it happened and had the lens at about 300mm as it was quite a way away! I had hoped that the motion of the water would blur as explained above, but the ship's slow motion would remain reasonably clear. The mist was meant to blot out the otherside giving me a "ghost ship" in the mist on a wierd body of water! Still it was worth a go!

    I'm still learning and the beaty of didital is that learning is free! I'll post up some shots I took that day later at home to show the view I had! Then you experts can tell me what you'd have done.

  8. #8
    [Ex]Admin Duncan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brocks View Post
    I see the pictures I wanna take in me head but I can't set the camera up to get it right.
    That happens even to us pros m8! I'll see a scene in front of me and sometimes just can't get onto film/digital how I was trying to capture it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Brocks View Post
    I thought a slow shutter speed (2-4 seconds) to make the water look like glass (an effect I saw in a magazine) and an appature of F8 would make the ship stand out against an almost whied out background...kind of an opposite silhouette.

    The result a completey White picture. No ship no nothing! What I'm lookin for is a way to shoot long shutter speeds in day light to give a time lapse effect! When i speeded up the shutter All I got was a hormal shot of a ship in the water. No bluring of the water!
    As m8intenret said, 2-4secs @ f8 is an exposure you would use at night and as it was daylight (even though it was murky) it's resulted in your white out due simply to massive overexposure. If you wanted to use a slow shutter speed you'd have needed to stop down a lot more to a smaller aperture (bigger number). If you find that even stopping down to your smallest aperture, along with using your lowest ISO setting, that you still can't get a slow enough shutter speed because it's daytime, then you need to stick on a filter to block out more light.The ones to use for these are called ND (Neutral Density) and basically knock out light without adding any colour shift or other effects. They usually come rated as .3, .6 and .9 which reduce the light by 1, 2 and 3 stops respectively. If you have a polariser filter you can also use that. This will knock out between 1.5 and 2 stops and has the advantage that you can turn the filter to knock out any glare on the water to enhance the effect you are after.
    Quote Originally Posted by m8internet View Post
    A long exposure on water surfaces sadly doesn't give a glass effect, but more a very white salt look
    You can get a glass effect with water with a long exposure, depending on how the water is moving. If it's rough sea/whiter water it will not work so well. It has to be fairly clear, and fairly calm, water and then what the long exposure does is smooth out the ripples. If it's rough sea it's never going to look glass like - that's when it will just look all white.
    Quote Originally Posted by m8internet View Post
    You really need to be above the water level by about 30 degrees to get a glass (clear) effect, but the surface would have to have no swell of any kind
    The angle won't really make a difference - you can still get the effect higher up or lower down with, as you say, minimal swell to get the best effect.
    Quote Originally Posted by m8internet View Post
    For a time lapse, what you want is shutter override
    This allows multiple photos on the same exposure
    You then divide the number of shots into the exposure
    So lets say you want to take 10 shots
    Set the F number for the shot, you would normally use 1/5th second
    You would then take 10 shots of 1/50th of a second
    However, if the ship is moving, it may overlap, but the static objects will be perfect
    That effect isn't going to give the smooth water effect Brocks is after. That will just give multiple exposures of a shot taken with a faster shutter so you'll have multiple shots of the water pretty much sharp - there won't be any smoothing/blurring of it.

    The exposure calculation is also somewhat wrong I'm afraid. Exposure is an logarithmic calculation and not a linear one. I can get into the calculations if you'd like me to, but I think it may just get Brock's head spinning for the moment. All you need to know Brocks is that you can possibly get the effect you were after. All you need to do is set your camera to the mode that lets you set the shutter speed and it then chooses the aperture (should be referred to as Shutter Priority on your camera and probably have a T or Tv setting on the mode switch) Select a slow shutter speed, somewhere around 1sec to 1/4 sec as a guide - all depends on the speed of the water movement and see what aperture the camera is choosing. If it's out of range i.e. can't stop down enough then you need to do the thing with the filter as before.

    Hope that helps without confusing!

    D

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    Regular Member Brocks's Avatar
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    I took about 200 photos in all trying different settings. I've got a Polariser and UV filter so I tried them too.

    This the ship in question:





    The camera saw the far side of the river better than I could! The next one is a tanker. I found it a little surreal seeing a ship sailing past a forst so I framed it with the trees (Just a bit of fun)




    And as its a Vectra forum...Some of the car:












    I then went over to the Dee side of the Wirral (Same day) and took these looking out to sea :





    And over toward North Wales and it's angry sky:






  10. #10
    Regular Member ukanalyst's Avatar
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    Looks like you had a good day Some of the photos at the top look a little soft to me (perhaps a bit of camera shake due to low light?) but I do like this one VERY much:



    I also like this one but shame about the fence:



    and I like the composition of this one, although it's maybe a tad overexposed and the background is maybe a little cluttered:



    Just my oppinion and at the end of the day if you like them it doesn't matter I know how hard it can be to get that perfect picture (I'm still to achieve this!) and knowing how hard it can be to get the camera to do what you see in your mind but I think you've done really well here ... just hoped you had fun doing it cos that's what it's all about IMHO

    Dave
    Last edited by ukanalyst; 8th January 2007 at 23:09.

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