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Thread: Sorry to be a pain in the butt

  1. #1
    Regular Member StephSCO's Avatar
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    Default Sorry to be a pain in the butt

    I previously started a thread about my EGR not getting power, I found out that the two pins:

    Pin 1 = Constant 12v feed
    Pin 5 = Pulsing negative feed

    Well on my car pin 1 is a negative feed and pin 5 shows nothing, I tried a light tester to see and it didn't work; however when I ran a multimeter on both pins I got a 12v output.

    Now since I ran the multimeter my car won't go about 3500rpm and I have a whole new lot of fault codes, has anyone come across this and does it look like someone somewhere down the line has changed the engine and botched up the wiring harness?

    P0243 - Boost Pressure Valve Low Voltage
    (02) - Present

    P0703 - Brake Switch Circuit Malfunction
    (04) - Present

    P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Open
    (04) - Present

    P1180 - Fuel Filter Heater Low Voltage
    (02) - Present

    P0030 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    (02) - Present

    P0638 - Electronic Throttle Control Circuit open
    (04) - Present
    As I said I am sorry for being a royal pain in the butt but the car is doing my head in, I fitted a boost gauge which was working fine till now, when I rev the car the gauge needle doesn't even move, I have checked the hose and all is fine, so I removed the hose from the MAF and the suction on it seems pitiful.

  2. #2
    Regular Member C-Owner's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StephSCO View Post
    I previously started a thread about my EGR not getting power, I found out that the two pins:

    Pin 1 = Constant 12v feed
    Pin 5 = Pulsing negative feed

    Well on my car pin 1 is a negative feed and pin 5 shows nothing, I tried a light tester to see and it didn't work; however when I ran a multimeter on both pins I got a 12v output.

    Now since I ran the multimeter my car won't go about 3500rpm and I have a whole new lot of fault codes, has anyone come across this and does it look like someone somewhere down the line has changed the engine and botched up the wiring harness?



    As I said I am sorry for being a royal pain in the butt but the car is doing my head in, I fitted a boost gauge which was working fine till now, when I rev the car the gauge needle doesn't even move, I have checked the hose and all is fine, so I removed the hose from the MAF and the suction on it seems pitiful.
    You mean since you used a light tester not the multimeter, the fault codes have appeared, using this type of circuit tester can/will damage the ecu.

    Disconnect the battery for a few hours see if it comes back to life, failing that a session on a Tech 2 or Vag-com is advised.

    A ecu reflash might be all that's needed.
    Last edited by C-Owner; 11th September 2012 at 16:55.

  3. #3
    Regular Member StephSCO's Avatar
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    Default

    Well thing is after I did both I ran the car and it was fine, so I went in to the house, grabbed my laptop and the tool, came out, plugged it in, ran diagnostics, read codes and they came up, so I started car and that is when I got the lack of power. I definatly think someone has mashed up the wiring as it looks a complete mess behind the intake manifold, a lot of the wiring has none of the protective plastic tubing on it.

    But I will try the battery and see, as for the ECU is that where you "Reset" the ecu, then go back in to Immob and program it back in using security code, if so I done that and still same codes and problem. Oh and what is Vag-Com?

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    Regular Member StephSCO's Avatar
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    I managed to fix most of the fault codes, it was a fuse in the engine fusebox, but still have the EGR problem where it appears the wiring is the wrong way round, as I am getting negative feed from pin 1 and positive from pin 5 which it should be the other way around.

  5. #5
    Regular Member richy1974's Avatar
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    Vag-Com is for vw audi skoda and seat

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Not sure why you'd want to use vag-com on avauxhall?

    Any way how are you testing the wiring? The wires needed to be loaded to get accurate reading an still plugged in of possible.

    Just so where all singing off the same song sheet can you confirm how you tested to know that you have a negative an not positive feed?

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    Regular Member StephSCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Critch View Post
    Not sure why you'd want to use vag-com on avauxhall?

    Any way how are you testing the wiring? The wires needed to be loaded to get accurate reading an still plugged in of possible.

    Just so where all singing off the same song sheet can you confirm how you tested to know that you have a negative an not positive feed?
    I am talking with Vaux mechanics on "justanswer" website and he told me to use multimeter on the pins and so on, what voltages I should get, what Kohms I should get and so on, well one of them said:

    Pin 1 at the egr should be 12v but earth of meter should be on battery negative for first test.

    If it isn't then check fuse FE15. Checks to be made with ignition on. If no voltage at fuse then UNderhood Electronic Module is faulty.

    If there is 12v at Pin 1 then you disconnect the control unit and measure the voltage on Pin 5 and earth. Should be less than 0.3v.

    If it is then you need to measure resistance of EGR valve wiring pin 5 and ground. Should be greater than 500 kOhm.

  8. #8
    Regular Member StephSCO's Avatar
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    Is Vaux Com any different from OP-COM, which I have?

  9. #9
    Regular Member C-Owner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richy1974 View Post
    Vag-Com is for vw audi skoda and seat
    Yea sorry about the Vag-Com thing I have been working with it all week its for the VW Skoda Audi Seat Ford/VW

    I meant Vaux-Com

    Quote Originally Posted by StephSCO View Post
    Is Vaux Com any different from OP-COM, which I have?
    Op-Com is the european version of Vaux-Com
    its use in the Uk is deemed as pirated software and as I'm aware its forbidden on this forum to discuss it.

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