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Thread: Car going into safe/limp mode

  1. #1
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    Default Car going into safe/limp mode

    HELP
    Car keeps going into safe mode and every time my friend plugs in his lap top it always points to the throttle, sorry can remember the codes. I have read the threads written by Andreitone and Winnie2457 regarding the solder joins ect. Have checked but they seem ok. Have cleaned the EGR and Throttle and the car goes much better, does have jerky moments and does have the odd flat spot but eventually the engine managment light comes up and it dies. I am taking it to my mate this afternoon so he can plug in hs lap top and see what it comes up with, and if it comes up with the same problem i am considering buying a new throttle. I would also like to know if you are suppose to get oil, only very slight, from the inter cooler? have also found some slight oil on the circuit board in the throttle. Will let you all know what the out come is and also codes

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    Right chaps here is a quick note to keep you all in the picture, After putting throttle back together again my plan was to takeit down to my mate to plug in his lap top but the engine managment light cleared it self, dont know what i did before you ask, so will wait to see if it goes into limp/safe mode now and then we shall see what happens.

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    Right chaps, since putting throttle back on i drove down to Sutton in Surrey from Dunstable, Bedfordshire on Tue 28. All ok untill i reached North Cheam when it went into safe/limp mode again. I got it to my destination. Next morning i drove around waiting for it to go into safe mode again but to no avail so i disconnected the lead from the throttle and see what that would happen. I drove back to home again with the Engine Managment light on and it drove ok with no problems. Thursday30th went to see my mate with his lap top and again my throttle is the one causing all the problems. Codes that showed up were :- P0100-08, Mass or volume air flow circuit malfunction, P1125-62, Throttl actuator malfunction, P1125-61, Throttl actuator malfunction, P1125-08, Throttle actuator feed back. P0638, Throttle. Did speak to him about some of the threads that i have read on here regarding the butterfly/throttle plate being removed and also the positioning lead and why the car still works? He's answer was that the car will use other senors that are still connected and or it will also go into a default setting for that sensor. Looks like i might be buying a new throttle body. Hope this all helps chaps.

  4. #4
    Full Member merikiito's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia CDTi SRi NAV 160

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : A20DTH

    Year : 2009

    Mileage : 88000

    Default

    You need to examine the joints with a magnifying glass as the cracks in the solder are very fine and cannot always be seen with the naked eye.
    I would resolder them just to be certain. Was there oil when you took it apart?
    Lois Griffin: Peter! You're bribing your daughter with a car?
    Peter Griffin: Ah, c'mon, Lois, isn't 'bribe' just another word for 'love'?

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    A very slight amount of oil. Did not use a magnifying glass so might recheck again and i might do as you suggest and resolder. Thanks Merikiito

  6. #6
    Regular Member triple595's Avatar
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    Mine had lots of those faults on my 1.8 Sri mine turned out to be the crank position sensor

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    Hi Triple595 thanks for that but everything always points to the throttle. I have resoldered as a few have suggested on here and also by Merikiito. Disconnected battery as well to clear ECU and will now see if the resoldering has been successful, fingers crossed. Will keep you posted.

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    Morning all, well just over one week on and 210 miles done and everything ok since resoldering the joints. Does juders about 1200 to 1400 revs now and again but otherwise all is good. Thanks Merikiito for pushing me to resolder anyway.

  9. #9
    Full Member merikiito's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia CDTi SRi NAV 160

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : A20DTH

    Year : 2009

    Mileage : 88000

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    Pleased you have an improvement. I would now clean your boost sensor, check the pipes from the vacuum pump as these can split and maybe clean the EGR valve
    Lois Griffin: Peter! You're bribing your daughter with a car?
    Peter Griffin: Ah, c'mon, Lois, isn't 'bribe' just another word for 'love'?

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    Hi Merikiito, thanks for that advice. I did clean the EGR valve and boost sensor but will look into the vacuum pump. What happens if the pipes do split? Also done about 3000 miles now and all good. Got a couple of questions for you if you dont mind answering, my main radiator had a hole in it so when changing it we found the inter cooler, bottom 4 tubes, where they were suppose to be thin they had expanded what would cause this? we changed the inter cooler and it might of been a coincidence but it seems to have sorted out the juddering i normally get about 1200 to 1400 revs. Any idea?

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