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Thread: my cdr2005 amp problem

  1. #1
    Regular Member jinkie's Avatar
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    Default my cdr2005 amp problem

    hello i was wanting to know if i can conect my amp and sub up to my std head unit i cant seem to finde out anything about it thanks

  2. #2
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRi


    Engine : Z22SE (2.2 Petrol)

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    It can be done mate but with a Line Driver or a simple phono to rca converter. All you do is connect the speaker wires into it and then you have rca outputs to connect to your amp. A line driver is 12v powered and will give a better quality and the converter isn't powered but there dirt cheap. If you go down the line driver way make sure it has the correct input terminals to take the speaker wires as most are rca in and out.

  3. #3
    Regular Member jinkie's Avatar
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    cheers rushy i cant seem to find any of them all i can find is this i dont know if this is the right thing i am looking for http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2604692042...84.m1423.l2649

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    VIP-Member Z80's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Vectra GTS

    Trim : Elegance

    Engine : 2.2 DTi 16V

    Year : 2003

    Mileage : 75 000

    Default

    Yes, that's exactly what you're looking for.

    They're often supplied with the amp, or some amps may also have low impedance/high level entries as well, check yours first in case you have them.

  5. #5
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRi


    Engine : Z22SE (2.2 Petrol)

    Year : 2004

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    As Z80 said mate that's the one. Mine is fitted behind the to the rear outputs only, I've spliced it in so the rear speakers still work and then I just ran the rca cables through the center console under the carpet and into the boot. Run the power cable for the amp down the passenger side so it doesn't cause any interference.

  6. #6
    VIP-Member Z80's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Vectra GTS

    Trim : Elegance

    Engine : 2.2 DTi 16V

    Year : 2003

    Mileage : 75 000

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    Quote Originally Posted by rushy View Post
    I just ran the rca cables through the center console under the carpet and into the boot.
    True. This is definitely the way to go. Zero interference, a real pleasure !

    Well, the only funny thing is I'm going to add a PXA-H701 and use a fiber-optic link now, so the 3 RCA pairs I ran will now become useless !

  7. #7
    Regular Member jinkie's Avatar
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    where should i run the control wire from thanks for you help

  8. #8
    VIP-Member Z80's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Vectra GTS

    Trim : Elegance

    Engine : 2.2 DTi 16V

    Year : 2003

    Mileage : 75 000

    Default

    It won't catch interferences so run it where you want, or where it's the more handy for you.

    I didn't use a single cable, however, but an RJ-45, 4 twisted pairs, network cable, in order to get other controls if needed (boot lighting, fuses monitoring, fans control, etc.) I ran it along the speakers wires (left, driver side for me), while the power supply was run to the right (passenger) side.

    That's because the free grommet on left-hand drive cars is situated behind the glovebox on the right side, as it was too thick (35 mm², plus 16 mm² for the Alpine headunit) to use the same grommet as the main loom. So I had cross the car under the water protection in front of the windshield, from the battery to the right grommet, then straight to the rear.

    If your main loom is situated to the right on your car, then you'll naturally run the power supply cable straight to the rear on the left side. It's obviously the best choice if the free grommet is situated on the battery side (unlike my Opel). I'm not sure for vauxhalls RHD cars, however. ^^

    Now for the for amps control wire, it's really up to you, but since it will come from the rear of your head unit, you'll probably run it along with the speakers wires (provided you're re-using the exiting ISO connectors to route the wires to the speakers as I did, as it also facilitaites the insertion of the Parrot handfree kit).

    Actually, I ran another brace of wires from the amps in the boot to an additional ISO connector behind the headunit, as I'm building a three-way active setup at the front. I found it was easier to make separate disconnectable looms I could solder at home before routing in the car, rather than doing all that in the car (I don't have a garage).

  9. #9
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Many rca cables come with the amp switch wire built in. My last had the switch wire running in between both ,this was handy as I had a gain controller fitted which was a a switch as well to turn the amp off.

  10. #10
    VIP-Member Z80's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Vectra GTS

    Trim : Elegance

    Engine : 2.2 DTi 16V

    Year : 2003

    Mileage : 75 000

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    That's true, but these are generally cheapo ultra-thin cable, very uneasy to connect without tearing as easily as toilet paper, so I'd rather use a real cable for this.

    I used double-shielded RCA cables wripped in an external single round sheath so they were easier to put three of them inside a slit tubing loom. Mine had no built-it remote cable, but you can find some having one.

    The network cable used for amps remote control (and more) was routed on its own, as it's a shielded category 6 FTP very sturdy one (I used the remains of a used roll).

    This is my RCA loom :



    Speakers loom :



    Power supply loom :


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