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Thread: Brake fluid bleeding

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    Default Brake fluid bleeding

    Changing a rear caliper, any suggestions on bleeding the fluid, will probably bleed all so that the fluid is renewed.

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    Regular Member MattVecVXR's Avatar
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    Use a vizibleed with two people, although it can be done with one person, you'll get better results with two.. Start at whichever caliper you like, pump up the pedal til its hard, open the nipple until the pedal reaches the floor, shut the nipple and lift the brake pedal. repeat until no air comes out. keep the header tank topped up and don't let it empty. worth doing the whole lot, just make sure you use a compatible brake fluid... dot 4 or dot 5.1.

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    Regular Member Chunklamb's Avatar
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    I think its recommended to start at the caliper furthest from the header tank and move around the car finishing at the caliper closest.

    I'd only use what fluid has been used before, it should say on the header cap. Anything else and you should replace all seals through the braking system.

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    Gravity bleed.

    Clamp the flexi remove the caliper & refit the new one, open the bleed nipple put a dish under the caliper, go make a coffee come back fluid should be dripping nicely from that caliper nipple. Top up resovoir afterwards. job done.

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    Regular Member marktaylor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chunklamb View Post
    I think its recommended to start at the caliper furthest from the header tank and move around the car finishing at the caliper closest.

    I'd only use what fluid has been used before, it should say on the header cap. Anything else and you should replace all seals through the braking system.
    so everytime you bleed the brakes you should remove every item of the system ( 4 calipers and master cylinder ) and replace all the seals

    dont know who told you this but its utter rubbish

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    Buy yourself an EasiBleed kit (can get it from Halfords) Use your spare tyre (at 14PSI) to pressurize it.

    Ideally you want the car on axle stands and ALL four wheels of the car.

    Get a syringe and remove as much brake fluid from your master cylinder as you can. Then fill with new Brake Fluid.
    Then screw on the easibleed and pressurize the brake system.
    Starting from the furthest from the master cyllinder (nearside rear wheel) undo the bleed nipple until new fluid is visible (without bubbles) in the clear pipe. Do up the bleed nipple.
    Check your brake fluid reservoir and top up and repeat for the offside rear, nearside front and lastly offside front.

    Check for any leaks and full the reservoir up to the max level.

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    North West Regional Organiser paulvectrac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marktaylor View Post
    so everytime you bleed the brakes you should remove every item of the system ( 4 calipers and master cylinder ) and replace all the seals

    dont know who told you this but its utter rubbish
    am with mark what alod on poooooo
    Vectra vxr custome remaps egr deletes dpf and diagnostic work all remaps are custome bench tuning avalible all genuine equipment PM for info

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    Regular Member MattVecVXR's Avatar
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    I wouldnt bother buying a eazibleed unless you plan on bleeding brakes often. its easy to use but for the expense and having to dig out the spare wheel, the vizibleed achieves the same results at a fraction of the cost and is still very easy to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigtee View Post
    Gravity bleed.

    Clamp the flexi remove the caliper & refit the new one, open the bleed nipple put a dish under the caliper, go make a coffee come back fluid should be dripping nicely from that caliper nipple. Top up resovoir afterwards. job done.
    I would not drive a car without confirming all the air is out of the system. By removing the hose, you are allowing air to travel up the system, all it takes is a bend to cause an air lock. for the sake of pressing the brake pedal a couple of times, its not worth risking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chunklamb View Post
    I think its recommended to start at the caliper furthest from the header tank and move around the car finishing at the caliper closest.

    I'd only use what fluid has been used before, it should say on the header cap. Anything else and you should replace all seals through the braking system.
    It doesn't matter what order you bleed the calipers on modern cars, the abs block negates this requirement. also you can change the brake fluid as long as it's compatible. if you're changing from dot 4 to dot 5.1 you need to bleed the whole system and carry out a full fluid change. if you're just topping up, then use the same fluid.

    Quote Originally Posted by marktaylor View Post
    so everytime you bleed the brakes you should remove every item of the system ( 4 calipers and master cylinder ) and replace all the seals

    dont know who told you this but its utter rubbish
    Agreed, the only seals you should be renewing is the aluminium crushing washers on the banjo connection for any calipers that have been removed... and the caliper seals if needed.

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    Regular Member Keif's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDTiMatt View Post
    I wouldnt bother buying a eazibleed unless you plan on bleeding brakes often. its easy to use but for the expense and having to dig out the spare wheel, the vizibleed achieves the same results at a fraction of the cost and is still very easy to use.
    I drop the pressure in my offsdie front wheel and use that. Then pump it up to pressure when finished.

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    Thanks all.

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