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Thread: Coolant change

  1. #1
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    Default Coolant change

    Decided to service the car today.

    Cabin, air , fuel (petrol splash in the eye!!), oil filters. Spark plugs, oil change and then finally coolant.

    I followed the how 2 and drained it using the bottom of the rad, then flushed it through, filled up a bit with water started it let it warm up then re-drain. I used the red long life stuff for vx. My z22se takes 7.1L so I put 1 ltr of red, 1 litre of water , 1 ltr of red then half way through the 2nd water it wouldn't go down? stopped it at the half way level then started it, let it warm up, nothing? so I took it for a drive nothing? and it still hasn't gone down. I put in about 3 and a half ltrs.

    Will there be some kind of blockage? when took it for a drive it went to normal 87ish and when I left it running the fans kicked in and went off as normal. What have I done wrong/ or broken

  2. #2
    Ex Vec-C Admin ed taylor's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 3.2 V6

    Year : 04

    Mileage : 000

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    Might have an air lock. Put the heater on hot. Run it for s while. See if that helps. If not take the header tank cap off and run it for a while just ticking over. Hopefully that will remove the air lock.

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    How much did u drain out?

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    Default

    there is pretty much no way of getting what's around the block out(without removing the water pump), best bet is to remove the thermostat and the top hose from the radiator, then stick the hose in each end and keep flushing both ways until its crystal clear, reconnect everything add 3.5lt of antifreeze and top up with water. Run up until the engine reaches temp, with teh heater on hot, leave over night and top up with water accordingly. Test mixture is at at least -27 and drain/add antifreeze till you get where it needs to be.
    "We are not some sort of dictatorship!"


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    Vehicle : vectra c

    Trim : ls

    Engine : 1800 non vvt

    Year : 2004

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    Quote Originally Posted by DasArab View Post
    there is pretty much no way of getting what's around the block out(without removing the water pump), best bet is to remove the thermostat and the top hose from the radiator, then stick the hose in each end and keep flushing both ways until its crystal clear, reconnect everything add 3.5lt of antifreeze and top up with water. Run up until the engine reaches temp, with teh heater on hot, leave over night and top up with water accordingly. Test mixture is at at least -27 and drain/add antifreeze till you get where it needs to be.

    what he said

    but wear your wellies when its -27 lol

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    Default

    Can't you drain the block is there not a bung? Thats a large bolt in the water jacket of the block.

    Why did you drain it was it over 10yrs old or weak?

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    I've done both of the suggested ideas and it's still not gone down. At least 5L came out as I used a 5L container and I filled that plus a bit more. I'm guessing after emptied it the first time and then did the hose that water stayed in the main block? So I've got 7L in there but only 2L is coolant the rest water. What would you advise I do to correct it I've got 2L of coolant left.

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    Default

    Test the strength you may be ok.

    If -25 or more bang on lets be honest it's never colder than -12 is it?

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    Buy an anti-freeze mixture tester from Halfords, they're very cheap. It's like a pen or pippet, it sucks up a small amount of liquid from the expansion tank and you see how many "balloons" in the tester float upwards - that tells you if you have the right concentration or not.

    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255224

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigtee View Post
    Test the strength you may be ok.

    If -25 or more bang on lets be honest it's never colder than -12 is it?
    I believe its not so much to do with frost protection but to provide optimum anti corrosive properties to the aluminium engine components.
    "We are not some sort of dictatorship!"


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