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Thread: Can't stop water pump leaking!

  1. #1
    Regular Member FatboySteve's Avatar
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    Default Can't stop water pump leaking!

    Hi Guys,

    1.9 CDTI 150, I did my cambelt kit and water pump at the weekend, put back together and water leaking, must be from the pump! I thought it was strange that it came with a paper gasket (Pump from Euro Car Parts), but used it with sealant etc.

    So today, I went to vaux and got a new gasket, which was metal! so i thought that was the problem. Stripped it down again, cleaned the mating faces and bolts perfectly, fitted with new metal gasket, sealent on bolt threads, and under heads, reassembled, and STILL leaking. And it's not like it's a little slow leak, it pours out. I think last time it emptied the header in about 10 minutes.

    So, my question is, could the pump be faulty ? I've booked tomorrow off work to remove it....again.... and check it for flatness etc to give me time to take the pump back and swap if needed, but maybe i'm doing something wrong ? (I've done plenty of water pumps before, but on older vauxhalls where it's more inset in the block)

    so if anyone has any tips, and could let me know what type of gasket, and procedure (where you put sealent etc) they used, that would also be awesome!

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Regular Member FatboySteve's Avatar
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    Just to add, i'm slightly worried about loosening and retentioning the cambelt for a 2nd time! Should this be ok ? It's only idled on the drive for 5 mins twice, so should be like new still?
    Last edited by FatboySteve; 9th July 2012 at 23:00.

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    Regular Member alcutler's Avatar
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    If you have done all that it can only be leaking through the bearing seals on the shaft of the pump - can you run it without the cambelt covers on to see exactly where the water is coming from - shouldn't be hard to see if that much is coming out. I've got a GM pump in the garage waiting to go on when I do my pump and that comes with a large rubber sealing O ring (although mine is the 120 and may be different than the 150 - not sure) - did you get one of those - shouldn't need any other gasket or sealant - although I did read somewhere that someone had coolant escaping from the threaded holes in the block that the bolts holding the pump in place go into and recommended sealant on the threads.

    Sorry mate - the 120 is different than the 120 and the O ring info may not apply to yours
    Last edited by alcutler; 10th July 2012 at 09:36. Reason: More info added

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    Regular Member FatboySteve's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info mate, i'm a bit worried about running it with the belt exposed (probably no reason to be) but what i will do, is spin the pump real fast while theres water in it lol so that should expose the leak anyway.

    I sealed the bolt holes both times, so i don't think it's that, going to dismantle now, will report back on findings!

    Thanks again

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    Regular Member FatboySteve's Avatar
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    Wow, something just occured to me....

    When i removed the pump the 2nd time, to replace the gasket for the metal one, it hissed as i undid the bolts...which suggests it WAS sealed ??

    new question...what could i have disturbed in that area that would leak water? lol

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Sounds odd!.

    So first off I have to say that I would only ever use a GM pump with the correct GM gasket.

    You then need to cover the threads of the bolts with silicone sealant.. Not too much, just put some on the bolts and then work into the thread with your fingers removing the excess.. VERY important to clean the bolts first to ensure there is no old sealant on the threads etc,

    Then torque the bolts to the correct setting.. I believe its 30NM from memory (book in the car)...

    Certainly sounds like a knackered pump TBH as long as you are getting a seal on the bolts.. these go directly into the water vains hence the need for silicone sealant.

    For the sake of £40 ish and piece of mind - i'd be off to VX to get a genuine pump..

    HTH

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    ...just to add.. No sealant is required on the pump / block / gasket face - purely the bolt threads and make sure its silicone sealant.

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Ok - coolant pump bolts are 25NM... Dont overtighten them...

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    Regular Member FatboySteve's Avatar
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    Yep, 25nm is what i did!

    Just had another look, removed the cambelt top cover as much as poss (1 bolt is blocked by engine mount grrr) but i can have a fairly good look at the top of the pump, and i see no signs of leaking (while it's running) at the top, or signs of water on anything near by...

    I've done this 2 days in a row now, and i'm tired so i think i'm going to give up and take it to my local indipendant to fix lol

    It's not that i don't want to do it myself, it's just i don't want to do it myself, and then find out it's still leaking and i'm back at the same stage i was at yesterday with a fully assembled leaking car
    Last edited by FatboySteve; 10th July 2012 at 11:24.

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    Regular Member alcutler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntSSSS View Post
    Ok - coolant pump bolts are 25NM... Dont overtighten them...
    Hi- just out of interest - If I can tap into your expertise as I see you have done loads of cambelts/waterpumps - obviously the 120 pump is different than the 150 - I take it the 150 has a normal gasket as opposed to the 120 having an O ring - and secondly do the bolts holding the pump on the 120 need silicon on the threads the same as the 150? - and yes your advice on only using a genuine GM pump is sound, Thanks

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