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Thread: Question about turbocharger adjustment (Y22Dtr)

  1. #1
    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    Default Question about turbocharger adjustment (Y22Dtr)

    Hi, I had to change my turbocharger, as the 9 years old original one was completely seized (loud whinning, boost coming brutally when the vanes unlocked, but still insufficient, leading to a lot of smoke and soot covering the Veccy's back, VNT vanes control arm impossible to move by hand, still wondering how the vacuum actuator managed to move it)...

    I also bought a repair kit and I'll try to dismantle the old beast and offer it a new life (may be necessary to have one spare in another 9 years, who knows ? )

    But my question is about fine-tuning the vanes arm and the current boost behaviour.

    Well, I still have the boost coming after a strong acceleration, so it's a bit less progressive than before. It's ok after that and I do have the wanted power, the car never smokes at it did with the old turbo, and I don't have any fault signal popping, but I do have much more lag from idle, now.

    I'm actually suspecting the catalyser to be completely clogged with soot after having been driving with a dead turbo for almost 2 months (necessary time to diagnose the problem, find the correct model, order one, and wait for it to cross the oceans), and I'll remove it soon.

    But if it finaly appears that removing the catalyser won't resolve the problem, what do you think I could do then to get boost pressure coming sooner ?

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Use a vacuum pump. And you should then be able to move the actuator rod.

    You will be able to do some small adjustments to see if that helps.

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    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    The new turbocharger is OK. When turning ignition on the rod goes fully back inside the actuator, closing the vanes (at least it should close them if I understood correctly).

    But it still lags a lot more than before the old turbo failed.

    What else should I see there ?
    Last edited by Z80; 8th July 2012 at 09:43.

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    By applying vac you should be able to move the rod. Now of its a adjustable you shah oils be able to control the amount of vane movement for the same amount of vac.

    Thats if I understand it correctly

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    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    OK but where do we find the correct amount of movement for a given vacuum pressure ?

    There's a MAP sensor on the intake manifold, so the ECU can decide to reduce boost pressure by closing the solenoid, so the arm goes out and opens the vanes, but how do we evaluate the correct ratio ?

    In fact, do you think I should reduce the arms's lenght and get more boost ? That was actually what I was asking for.

    The new turbo came with the arm tightened so it begun to move back as soon as vacuum would be applied to the actuator. Tightening it more (shortening the arm) would mean the vanes would never go back to fully open anymore. Do you think I should go for that ?

    If the catalyser is obstructed by soot, it may be useless to make any adjustment for low speed as exhaust gases are blocked anyway. I'd better fix that first.

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    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    Now I's been 3 days the new turbo has been fitted, and the car begins to behave better and better at low revs, so I guess the accumulated soot gets progressively expelled from the catalyser... I really have to decat ASAP anyway to get rid of this problem.

    Assuming it's done, how much amount of freedom in fine tuning the VNT arm would I have, according to you ? Provided I avoid to reach the point the OBD would throw an error message, would I have to shorten or lenghten the arm to minimise turbo lag as much as possible ?

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    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    OK, no need to use a vac pump (I don't have one anyway, nor can figure where I could find one in this country...)

    Just in case it could help other people, it's easy to have the knurled knob turning loose. The reason why it's hard to turn is just the angle the rod makes with the actuator, depending on the vanes lever position : though the variations are very small, they're still enough to block the knob passed its starting position, both ways actually.

    So the best and easiest way to adjust the knob is to release the arm, but not the way most people advise : removing the clip isn't easy ; it just tends to turn around the axle (especially mine that's brand new, clean and oiled ), plus if you ever successfully remove it, it will most probably jump to your face then fall under the engine, where you'll never find it again (it's some kind of cosmic black hole down there : I lost spanners, bits, scotchlock connectors, etc. and never found them again )

    So in turn, the best way to release the arm is to release the actuator from the turbo body. You even don't need to remove the two bolts : just remove the upper one, then untighten the lower one. The upper one prevents you from reaching the lower one comfortably anyway ; and on the other hand, if you remove the lower one, it will most probably fall into the famous black hole, so don't even try. LMAO Never forget Murphy's law is watching any of your stupidest moves...

    OK, now you've removed the upper bolt and untightened the lower one, you'll find the knob is as easy to turn as butter (plus the upper bolt was actually preventing you from inserting your finger).

    But the real problem remains : how long do I have to adjust the arm ?

    I started from the factory sealed turbo with a patch of paint on the thread, but if I compare my old turbo and the new one, I find the rod on the new one has been set almost 1 cm longer !

    I measured with a caliper, from the back of the flat area at the end of the top arm part, to the actuator's fixing plate. So I didn't actually measured the arm length itself, but the length it protrudes from the actuator, giving the actual vanes lever position at idle (i.e. without any vacuum applied).

    So either my vanes are stuck half-closed and the old turbo's rod actually can't go back to its full idle (vanes fully open) position, either the new turbo wasn't setup for the Y22DTr engine from factory... Well, the first question here, is : are there car specific setups, or does a turbocharger only have one optimized setup from the maker, whatever the car it will be mounted on ?

    Then I begun to shorten the arm, but the results are strange. I'm losing power at low RPMs, then boost comes brutally and I get a kick in the ass... Though this phenomenon is more commonly described when the arm is too long ! On the other hand, at full acceleration without any gear engaged, I can't even reach 4,000 RPM, so I'm obviously far from the good setup.

    I've not reached the old turbo's arm length yet, but I'm hesitating to do so, as the shorter I make it, the more this behavior increases... I'm really not sure I'd want to shorten it any further, as the power loss I'm experiencing could just be back pressure from the exhaust flowing backwards to the engine... Which is not good news.

    Is there really nobody here knowing the way the actuator arm must be adjusted, nor the correct length it should have ? Come on, really nobody knows ?

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    Full Member Z80's Avatar
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    Just managed to empty the catalyser (quite sportive, one round bit had exactly the pipe diameter and stayed stuck in it, it took more than an hour to chase it and manage to reduce it enough so that it accepted to exit).

    Light could still be seen through the cells, but there was a lot of soot everywhere, and some of them where still clogged, despite better breathing since the turbocharger was changed. I might choose to change it for a new one if rendered necessary by increased control... But I will just leave it empty for now.

    I then lengthened back the actuator rod. Actually, the old turbo vanes were so badly blocked that I had to use a scewdriver as a lever to pull back the arm to "vanes fully open" position : the actuator spring was unable to do it anymore. Now I measured 35.65 mm from the nut collar to the actuator fixing plate, and I reproduced the same setting on the new turbo (or at least tried to, as the final lenght changes a bit when tightening the nut, then again when fixing back the actuator bolts in position).

    Now I have to put all back together (realign the Irmscher exhaust in the process, as it wasn't mounted straight, meaning that I'll have to jack the car's back too first) and test it on the road.

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