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Thread: Help - Z19DTH won't start after boost sensor, egr & inlet manifold clean and refit

  1. #1
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    confused Help - Z19DTH won't start after boost sensor, egr & inlet manifold clean and refit

    Hoping someone might be able to help me.

    My vectra c estate has been running like a dog for the past few days (eml light on after 5 minutes) so decided to clean up a few bits to see if it would clear my problems. Have done this before without issue...but not tonight

    Removed and cleaned my boost sensor (with hyper clean), did the the full egr clean/rebuild, took the throttle body off and scraped alot of crud out of the inlet manifold, before refitting everything. All connectors are pushed home


    Went to take it for a spin and the ****** won't start. Turns over but won't fire.

    Can anyone help me understand what I might have done? Is there a chance that in scraping the crud out of the inlet manifold (with a stick) that I may have pushed some of it over an internal inlet pipe and now it's gunked up completely? Is the only thing I can think of


  2. #2
    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Mk1 renault scenic... I know I know but it drives

    Trim : Basic

    Engine : 1.6 16v

    Year : 2003

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    Check fuel pump connections?Egr defiantly fully sealed

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    Panic over ........got it fired up eventually ....

    Every 10 mins or so I kept turning over for 10-20 seconds (tried half a dozen times or more)

    Hooked up OP-COM

    Read
    P0621-01 Generator Lamp "L" COntrol Circuit Malfunction
    P1901-75 Part Filter Pressure Sensor High Diff Pressure


    Cleared faults

    Next time I turned over it fired up ...bit of smoke out the back. Dunno if clearing the faults had anything to do with getting it going again but I doubt it.

    When I took it for a bit of a hoke it did feel more responsive but on high revs (4500-500) I got the spanner and the fault codes were
    P0234-5B Boost Pressure Control Circuit Positive Differential Pressure
    P1901-75 Part Filter Pressure Sensor High Diff Pressure

    DPF is sitting at 90% so I need to get that dealt with sooner rather than later I'd say (how I'm not sure how but it wont involve a high price replacement if I can help it).

    Now sitting at 166k miles and even though it gets lumpy every now and then the C has stood me well. Would love to go 200+ on this car

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    Vehicle : vectra c

    Trim : ls

    Engine : 1800

    Year : 04

    Mileage : 130000

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    i found this have a read

    then have a read on post 36

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...Control+sensor

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    Regular Member alcutler's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra c 1.9cdti 120 estate

    Trim : design



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    The - P0621-01 Generator Lamp "L" COntrol Circuit Malfunction - comes up if you have an aftermarket alternator fitted to the car. I changed mine with a non genuine Vx one and it has always thrown this one up - but the alternator works perfectly

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    Had the alternator reconditioned a few months ago. Haven't checked the fault codes in that time. Possibly came up when it failed on me at that time

    I've a few things to do with the car

    There's hissing coming from "underneath" the engine so I presume I've a split hose somewhere (presume to turbo from reading threads)
    Need to clean/rebuild the boost control solenoid (have changed the pipe which was dozed a couple of years ago) and the recent how 2 will help
    Get the DPF "sorted". Just haven't quite figured out what "sorted" will look like. Cheapest if it's effective will suit me considering the miles on the car

  7. #7
    Regular Member alcutler's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra c 1.9cdti 120 estate

    Trim : design



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    Re the alternator code - I get it all the time - I can clear it and it is back straight away - I was told it was to do with it being an aftermarket unit - but at a third of the cost of a genuine alternator I can live with that.
    I would think repairing the 'hissing hose' will sort most of your problems and you should make that a priority

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    Have you checked your swirl valve and rod?

    The reason I ask, is that before I replaced my egr valve and cleaned out all the gunge from the manifold inlet hole, I noticed my swirl rod was hanging on by a thread and was very loose (it still worked prior to doing the EGR). However, upon first start after EGR replacement, it threw the swirl rod off. I can only guess the increased gas flow from the cleaned units caused it to move further and faster than it did before.
    Rod is now up my loft and valves are glued open.

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    Swirl rod popped off about 140000 miles ago

    Never thought of gluing the valves...kindof thought they'd act like weather vanes when disconnected. If I'm looking at the engine in front of me, what position is open? What glue did you use.?

    Yeah the hissing sound needs looking at.

    FYI..on my 40 mile journey to work (mostly motorway), the spanner came on after 5 minutes driving, but went out after another 10/12 miles and the engine ran pretty responsively from then on. Think it could/should be a little bit better (from vague memory) but it ran better than has done recently. Will check OBD tonight an see what it says. COuld be the DPF level has dropped below a threshold.
    Cheers

  10. #10
    Regular Member Marky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alcutler View Post
    The - P0621-01 Generator Lamp "L" COntrol Circuit Malfunction - comes up if you have an aftermarket alternator fitted to the car. I changed mine with a non genuine Vx one and it has always thrown this one up - but the alternator works perfectly
    I have exactly the same error code for exactly the same reason. The aftermarket alternator was fitted 3 years ago and it did it from the start. Wouldn't worry about that code.

    Though it is annoying to get the spanner every time you start the car! Can't wait to explain that one when I come to sell the car...

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