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Thread: Astra 1.9cdti 16v no boost at all - not mine

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    Default Astra 1.9cdti 16v no boost at all - not mine

    My brother inlaw's Astra has no boost what so ever... i have checked the vac pump - it works, i can't tell if the vac solinoid is working correctly... would a failing solinoid prevent the turbo from spooling?

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    Failed solenoid would, failed actuator, leaking vaccum hoses, stuck VNTs. Any fault codes?

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    no fault codes at all, car idles fine & drives minus the boost...

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    just to add... the vac is fine going into the solenoid, just cannot feel the vac going to the actuator, was trying to get to it on the driveway in the rain yesterday doh!

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    Unplug the hose to the actuator and with the engine off, suck on the turbo to move the actuator. Make a vacuum in the tube and use your tongue to block the tube, then wait and see if it holds the vacuum for ten seconds. If not then there is a leak, which, might be in the line or the actuator itself. If it holds, take your tongue off and you should hear the actuator move back to the stop. You probably won't hear when you are sucking but you should hear the rapid movement back to the stop, if not do it a few times to be sure. If it is not moving then it is ******ed or the VNTs are stuck.

    Start the engine with the solenoid connected to the vacuum pump but not the actuator and see if there is a vacuum in the line to the actuator. If there is then the solenoid is fine.

    Take off the intake pipe onto the turbo and check the compressor wheel is not moving more than 1mm (this is just a value to give you an idea of the amount of movement there should be).

    If all these things are okay then you might have a sensor issues, MAP/MAF or a big boost leak! Have you checked the U-bend pipes onto the intercooler for tears and around the EGR valve for boost leakage. The ECU will detect a boost leak and offload but not into a full limp mode, the cruise control will still work and it will come out of limp if it thens the leak is gone. That should still give a fault code though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nutron View Post
    Unplug the hose to the actuator and with the engine off, suck on the turbo to move the actuator. Make a vacuum in the tube and use your tongue to block the tube, then wait and see if it holds the vacuum for ten seconds. If not then there is a leak, which, might be in the line or the actuator itself. If it holds, take your tongue off and you should hear the actuator move back to the stop. You probably won't hear when you are sucking but you should hear the rapid movement back to the stop, if not do it a few times to be sure. If it is not moving then it is ******ed or the VNTs are stuck.

    Start the engine with the solenoid connected to the vacuum pump but not the actuator and see if there is a vacuum in the line to the actuator. If there is then the solenoid is fine.

    Take off the intake pipe onto the turbo and check the compressor wheel is not moving more than 1mm (this is just a value to give you an idea of the amount of movement there should be).

    If all these things are okay then you might have a sensor issues, MAP/MAF or a big boost leak! Have you checked the U-bend pipes onto the intercooler for tears and around the EGR valve for boost leakage. The ECU will detect a boost leak and offload but not into a full limp mode, the cruise control will still work and it will come out of limp if it thens the leak is gone. That should still give a fault code though.
    Thanks Karl...
    All boost pipes were checked, didn't find any splits they were being sucked inwards as the car was revved as opposed to expanding with boost, i did remove the line to the actuator & could not feel any vac, i could deffo feel vac going to the solenoid however, i will have a go at sucking on the line to the actuator too lol...

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    You can connect the actuator directly to the vacuum, bypassing the solenoid and drive it a little bit to see if you get spool up. This has the potential to seriously damage the turbo because you have no control over it other than your right foot. If you have a boost gauge then you can monitor it fine but I doubt in this case you do. I would suggest not going full throttle and keeping below 1700rpm, then you should not be able to exceed safe working limits and you would know by then if it would spooling up.

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