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Thread: Electric circuits testing problem

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    Default Electric circuits testing problem

    My battery has been running down when switched off overnight. The battery, alternator and starter have been tested and eliminated as the cause.

    I've done a parasitic current draw test on the battery and it shows a draw of 65 milliamps. I understand the correct figure should be in the range of 25mA to 35mA. Pulling fuses from the engine fusebox shows the suspect draw coming from the passenger fusebox. The problem is the front passenger door has to be open to give access to the passenger fusebox. But opening any door switches on various circuits and prevents getting an accurate reading of current draw. I've tried jamming the door latch without any success. Has anyone found the way to isolate the door lock sensor? Thanks.

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Mk1 renault scenic... I know I know but it drives

    Trim : Basic

    Engine : 1.6 16v

    Year : 2003

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    Can you not remove the glove box an built fuse box an try it that way?

    Or am not sure how the lock sensor works but maybe use a paper clip or similar in the lock connector to trick it into thinking door is locked.

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    How are you testing it...? Amp meter fitted car locked walk away for ten min for all systems close down then see what draw you have ...? Most common draw I've found on these is a faulty uec Giveing a small drop riseing to a large one over time then dropping back down again .....

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    Default Electric circuits testing problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Critch View Post
    Can you not remove the glove box an built fuse box an try it that way?

    Or am not sure how the lock sensor works but maybe use a paper clip or similar in the lock connector to trick it into thinking door is locked.
    Unfortunately the fuse box is built into the end of the facia. The paperclip is a good idea I'll give it a try. Thanks.

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    Default Electric circuits testing problem

    Quote Originally Posted by benny View Post
    How are you testing it...? Amp meter fitted car locked walk away for ten min for all systems close down then see what draw you have ...? Most common draw I've found on these is a faulty uec Giveing a small drop riseing to a large one over time then dropping back down again .....
    Yes - testing as you say. Initially the draw is about 2amps then after about 20 mins it drops to 65milliamps. I've taken the reading at various times over 24 hours and it is always constant 65mA. But pulling F31 in the engine fuse box drops the draw to15mA. Thanks for info - can I just ask what is uec. cheers

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