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Thread: swirl bar fix

  1. #1
    Regular Member littlegreenmartian's Avatar
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    Default swirl bar fix

    hey guys. got the all too common problem with the swirl bar coming off. i know the answers are on here somewhere but trying to get them in one place for easy access. which fix would be best between the tap washer mod or the numberplate cap mod. and what size washers would i need and were can i get these from and are all the numberplate caps the same or is there a particular sort i need to get.
    cheers

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

    Default

    If the bar is off and you dont want to replace the inlet glue/bond swirls 1, 2 and 4 open.. NOT 3 as thats driven by the motor.

  3. #3
    Regular Member littlegreenmartian's Avatar
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    what do you use to bond them open? and do you just put the stuff round the edge of the swirl or just slap loads on? and how can you tell that they are open. guessing you'd need to give it a good clean up first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by littlegreenmartian View Post
    hey guys. got the all too common problem with the swirl bar coming off. i know the answers are on here somewhere but trying to get them in one place for easy access. which fix would be best between the tap washer mod or the numberplate cap mod. and what size washers would i need and were can i get these from and are all the numberplate caps the same or is there a particular sort i need to get.
    cheers
    I tried the washer fix first - without looking from memory try a search as some kind soul had taken a picture of the washers they bought from B&Q, enabling me to do the same, all for the huge price of £1.20.

    The fix worked for me for a bit, but my bar has subsequently dropped off again. I am looking at bonding them in place as that is more of a permanent fix. However on inspection yesterday I noticed that flap 3 doesnt actually move.....possibly foolishly I gave it some gentle persuasion but now all that happens when you rev the car is the swirl pops up about 5mm (doesnt turn the nipple) then drops down when you turn the engine off. I suspect the motor as well as the manifold are properly f****d now, but fuel consumption seems ok.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlegreenmartian View Post
    what do you use to bond them open? and do you just put the stuff round the edge of the swirl or just slap loads on? and how can you tell that they are open. guessing you'd need to give it a good clean up first.
    look here http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...ESSENTIAL-INFO. Great attachment so you can understand how the flaps open and operate. Basically if you line the nipple up at 10 o'clock (as you look at the engine) they are open. When the nipples are at 2 o'clock the flaps are closed. I am told liquid metal glue works a treat (not tried yet myself), but yes get them clean then slap loads around each swirl - aside from stopping them moving it also stops them lifting up if the bearings are worn.

  6. #6
    Regular Member littlegreenmartian's Avatar
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    Default

    great stuff. going to try the washer mod first and if that doesnt work then i'll bond them.

  7. #7
    Regular Member littlegreenmartian's Avatar
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    another thing is if i ateempt the washer mod is superglue ok to use or is something different going to be better?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlegreenmartian View Post
    another thing is if i ateempt the washer mod is superglue ok to use or is something different going to be better?
    I think people have used both normal super glue and evo-stik liquid metal glue with successful results. I think the logic for using the liquid metal glue is it is better for higher temperatures. Not done this fix yet so only going on what I have read on this forum.

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    If your going to glue then leave the bar off

  10. #10
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    i have done this on mine glued with bar on so far its stayed on and had no problems

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