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Thread: Bought my first Vec C, have a few questions!

  1. #1
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    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH


    Default Bought my first Vec C, have a few questions!

    Following on from my last thread, ive bought the car i went to see.




    Its a 2006 Sri 150 with an intergalactic 157,000 miles on the clock but the price was too good to say no.
    Issues i spotted which im not sure about how to repair / the cost.

    1) I checked the actuator bar for the swirl valves like you good folks said and its disconnected from all the valves. I know this means a new inlet is needed which i should be able to fit myself, hopefully! Does it HAVE to be replaced or does it affect the engine not having them working? Wheres the cheapest place to get a new inlet? Trade club?

    2) The gear lever is very stiff side to side and in general. Is this just a case of pop the gaitor off and spray white grease into all the joints or is it a worn out gear linkage?

    3) The temperature knob on the heater panel has a piece out of it, is the knob easilly removed?

    4) It comes with no service history. The dealer says it had it upto 140k but is lost. Seems well taken care off though. Im going to put a new timing belt kit and water pump on as i dont know when it was last changed. Also a fuel oil and filter service. I have 10w/40 GM oil from vaux which i use in my x20xev. Is this oil ok for a 1.9 diesel or do i need a different type?

    Cheers for any help folks! I'll get some more pics up when i get it cleaned!

  2. #2
    North West Regional Organiser paulvectrac's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra

    Trim : vxr

    Engine : 2.8 v6 turbo

    Year : 2007

    Default

    from the top glue the flaps open not number 3 though lol gear knob spray the lincage under the bonnet see if it helps the heater knob just pulls off and yes 10/40 is fine especiallt at that milage best to use dexo2 from vx
    Vectra vxr custome remaps egr deletes dpf and diagnostic work all remaps are custome bench tuning avalible all genuine equipment PM for info

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    Regular Member Gubmint Agent's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : Sri

    Engine : 2.2 Direct

    Year : 2007

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    How much was the Vec and did you use any of the hints/advice from here to barter down the price at all?

  4. #4
    Regular Member Dane-10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IrishVectra View Post
    1) I checked the actuator bar for the swirl valves like you good folks said and its disconnected from all the valves. I know this means a new inlet is needed which i should be able to fit myself, hopefully! Does it HAVE to be replaced or does it affect the engine not having them working? Wheres the cheapest place to get a new inlet? Trade club?
    I had the same here, and i went for the temp fix (using the rubber washers to put the bar back on) But i did in the end (2 weeks later) go for the new inlet manifold. I am on for doing things the right way, Its what i prefer. Price wise for new inlet i went to VX parts paid for by my warranty (came with car) was £700.00 but this was VX prices for Inlet, All gaskets, Actuator, all parts needed. Some will say you dont need to change the actuator, but whilst its off i say change it (it does cost £170 at VX), You could probably get the parts from Ebay/Websites for half what i got them for, but again mine was covered by warranty. I then paid a further £180.00 for fitting + £120.00 for a Genuine Cambelt kit + Water pump.

    Whilst the inlet is off, The cambelt is pretty much a must, You have all the parts off for it near enough anyhow.

    I do belie you can pick inlets up for around the £170.00 figure from some sites.

    Quote Originally Posted by IrishVectra View Post
    4) It comes with no service history. The dealer says it had it upto 140k but is lost. Seems well taken care off though. Im going to put a new timing belt kit and water pump on as i dont know when it was last changed. Also a fuel oil and filter service. I have 10w/40 GM oil from vaux which i use in my x20xev. Is this oil ok for a 1.9 diesel or do i need a different type?
    If you are looking at the cam belt, i would really consider doing the inlet completely. Worth it imo, If you are doing the work yourself you can save quite a bit, as its a fair job labour wise.

    If doings bits its always worth pulling the EGR Valve off and give it a very good clean out, along with MAP Sensor + throttle body sometimes. They get very gunked up.

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    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH


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    looking from the front of the car which way do i need to turn the flaps to have them in the open position and what do i do with flap 3? I trawled through here looking for common faults before i bought it, been wanting to replace my aging vec B for quite a while now. Managed to get it for £2100, down from the asking price of £2495. Used the inlet manifold and a few small jobs needed and the lack of service history to haggle it down a bit.

    It has the colour screen on the dash. When i was on the test drive the fuel consumption was all over the place, if i gave it the right foot it said 999mpg! Is that normal or have I a dodgy sensor somewhere?
    Last edited by IrishVectra; 20th May 2012 at 13:19.

  6. #6
    Regular Member Dane-10's Avatar
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    The MPG is normal, Thats just a "instant consumption" If you want average hit the BC button and look at BC1 and BC2.

    From looking at the car the open position is 10.00am/pm Leave No3 alone (3rd from left). Dont glue it as the actuator still moves that one and if glued it will go into Limp mode.

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    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH


    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane-10 View Post
    I had the same here, and i went for the temp fix (using the rubber washers to put the bar back on) But i did in the end (2 weeks later) go for the new inlet manifold. I am on for doing things the right way, Its what i prefer. Price wise for new inlet i went to VX parts paid for by my warranty (came with car) was £700.00 but this was VX prices for Inlet, All gaskets, Actuator, all parts needed. Some will say you dont need to change the actuator, but whilst its off i say change it (it does cost £170 at VX), You could probably get the parts from Ebay/Websites for half what i got them for, but again mine was covered by warranty. I then paid a further £180.00 for fitting + £120.00 for a Genuine Cambelt kit + Water pump.

    Whilst the inlet is off, The cambelt is pretty much a must, You have all the parts off for it near enough anyhow.

    I do belie you can pick inlets up for around the £170.00 figure from some sites.



    If you are looking at the cam belt, i would really consider doing the inlet completely. Worth it imo, If you are doing the work yourself you can save quite a bit, as its a fair job labour wise.

    If doings bits its always worth pulling the EGR Valve off and give it a very good clean out, along with MAP Sensor + throttle body sometimes. They get very gunked up.
    does it affect the engine in any way having the swirl valves out of action? I'll wait a while and get a new inlet in time as money allows. I assemble z19dth engines among many others for a living but not so used to working on them in the car with all the ancillaries fitted!

  8. #8
    Regular Member Dane-10's Avatar
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    My MPG went up and running was smoother with the new parts, however people have just as good results bonding them open. The cheap fix is a perfect fix. As in my post im just the kind of person to do things properly and was dont under warrenty. If it wasnt warranty id have looked at bonding them myself until money allowed.

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