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Thread: Interesting find after replacing EGR valve

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    Smile Interesting find after replacing EGR valve

    I (DIY) replaced my EGR a couple of months ago. Fine, that cured the limp mode problems I had prior to that and rendered the car useable again. At the time of replacement, I did not however disconnect the car battery for an hour as I assumed that the ECU would re-learn as it went and adjust to the new gas levels of the new unit. Car idle was lumpy before EGR replacement and was lumpy after but I just put up with that.

    I now have ABS problems (nothing to do with EGR) but this has caused me to try a complete reset of my car electronics by disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours (this is the first time in 30k miles). ABS problem still exists and this is my next task but; the car idle is now so smooth, no lumps at all. Idle is like chalk and cheese.

    For anyone out there replacing or reworking their EGR, you may wish to reset your car electronics at the same time. This may be pure coincidence but there again may not be.

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    Interesting!
    What exactly gets reset when you disconnect the battery? And how can a reset alter the tickover lumpiness?

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    IDK. However someone on here may have a view. But I do know that battery disconnect for an hour or so forces the engine ECU to start from its pre-set default settings and then re-learn and adjust as you drive your car. My practical experience is exactly as I stated. The idle is so smooth now. I notice also that engine startup and shutdown also does not now shudder. This is a definate observation and not my imagination. OP-Com has confirmed that ilde is much more stable.

    It could be that within the last 30k miles of running, the engine ECU was gradually compenstating its parameters for the original EGR valve becoming increasingly lazy and the intake orifice of the manifold becoming clogged with crud (as indeed it was, and I had to clear it during EGR replacement as the orifice was almost compeletly choked with hard coke).

    If this was indeed the case, then resetting to the default preset variables and enabling the ECU to adapt to the new EGR and new gas flow could be a plausible theory.

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    Thanks for that - I'm planning to clean my EGR this weekend (I've got the new gaskets and carb cleaner etc), so I'm now tempted to disconnect my battery too - espcially if it stops the engine shuddering when starting up / shutting down. Cheers for the advice!!

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    No problem.

    If your EGR valve is anything like mine, the solenoid was the real problem. The plunger was virtually stuck solid. I bought and fitted a new one but a couple of weeks later I took the old one apart (as per the excellent how to on this site) and it is now functioning like new when I apply volatge across the terminals. I would not have bought a new one if I know what I know now. The soleniod components did take a few good whacks to release but once released, it was plain sailing.

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    The ECU would learn after a few miles that the EGR was working again as it should and compensate accordingly though shouldn't it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris SRi View Post
    The ECU would learn after a few miles that the EGR was working again as it should and compensate accordingly though shouldn't it?
    Maybe. As said though, something has happened to radically smooth out the idle and was all since all electronics were reset. Now 5 days and still ultra smooth. I was previously assuming it to be the DMF vibrating but looks unlikely now.

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