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Thread: smoke, loss of power, lumpy, cut out, help please.

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    Default smoke, loss of power, lumpy, cut out, help please.

    Hi all,

    Sorry for my first post to be asking for help, but I really have had some bad luck with my 1.9 cdti 56 plate.

    up to 63,000k now and has been in garage way more than any other car I have owned.

    So recent problem driving along when notice lack of power under 2k revs, EML came on for a bit and blowing white and black smoke, got it home as it was sat night, thought I would wait till monday to sort out taking it to a garage.

    Now car will start but will not rev at all and after couple of seconds goes lumpy and cuts out, can only move a few feet on the clutch.

    Thought maybe its somehting to do with air intake/fuel delivery.

    But have stumbled across this swirl valve problem and the bar that links all the tumble valves is off, will this cause the engine to not rev/cut out?


    There is a picture of the sooty exhaust, and the swirl bar laying sideways and not plugged into any holes.

    Thanks, any help appreciated.

    James.

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    Right: - the second pic is showing the swirl valve on that cyclinder is presently in the fully closed position. The car will run fine if cylinders 1, 2 & 4(looking from left to right from the front of the engine) is in the fully open position i.e. the knob on these swirl valves are at the 10 o clock position. Leave swirl valve 3 alone as this is driven by an electric motor - let the motor move it. Should valve 3 be stuck solid though, it may have stalled the electric motor and that would throw up a limp mode. If you look at swirl valve 3 with engine switched off, it should be at rest at the 10 o clock position. Once the engine is idling, it should be approx at the 1 or 2 o clock position. If this is so, then the motor is driving it ok. My advice would be to try and set valves 1,2 and 4 to the open position by poking a screwdriver down and moving them across. If they are slack, they will simply flap around. I have glued mine open and the car runs great but do not do this if you intend to try and re-connect the swirl rod.
    The other culrpit may be the EGR valve. Try disconneting the EGR electrical connector then try and drive it. This will throw up the eml light and you will require handheld code reader to clear fault once you re-connect it again or run it for a few miles until it eventually self clears the code.

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    Took the EGR of and gave it a clean and now all is fine, supprised it could go from working, to completely not working so quickly. I would have thought it would have been a gradual lack of performance before it got to the point where the car would not even idle.

    Thanks mate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrannySmiff View Post
    Took the EGR of and gave it a clean and now all is fine, supprised it could go from working, to completely not working so quickly. I would have thought it would have been a gradual lack of performance before it got to the point where the car would not even idle.

    Thanks mate.
    Prety much what happened to me, however, as soon as I disconnected the electrical connector, the car ran smoother than it did for years, so must have been sticking and a very gradual deterioration before falling over the steep cliff at the end.

    Glueing the swirl valves open and having the new EGR disconnected has transformed my car to how it performed years ago. Will connect EGR again the week leading up to MOT.

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