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Thread: brake pipes - engine subframe rear mounting

  1. #1
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    Default brake pipes - engine subframe rear mounting

    At last I am about to embark on replacing the brake pipes which run from the front to the rear of the car.

    Q1. In order to access a joint which lies behind the R/H engine subframe mounting I need to remove that mounting - pictured below. Is it straightforward and as it is just the one mount can I get away without supporting the engine?

    Q2. What please holds the plastic brackets which support the pipes - pictured below? Do they simply unclip in some way or are they bolted on?

    Thanks,
    Dave

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    Default torque to a value then + angle-tighten twice?

    Torque wrench settings for the above reinforcement plates are shown in the Haynes manual as follows:-
    Stage 1......100Nm
    Stage 2......Angle-tighten a further 90 degrees
    Stage 3......Angle-tighten a further 15 degrees

    Why please is the 'angle-tighten' split into two stages and not shown as a single stage of 105 degrees? Do you perhaps wait for a period between stages?

    Thanks,
    Dave

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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 150

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 74000

    Default

    I wouldnt advise not supporting the engine it just puts too much strain on the other mounts... I would use a jack and block of wood to take the strain whilst you remove the mount...


    Angle Controlled Tightening
    This method, also known as turn of the nut method, was introduced for manual assembly shortly after the second World War when a certain tightening angle was specified. The method has been applied for use with power wrenches, the bolt being tightened to a predetermined angle beyond the elastic range and results in a small variation in the preload due, in part, to the yield stress tolerance. The main disadvantages of this method lie in the necessity for precise, and, if possible, experimental determination of the angle; also the fastener can only sustain a limited number of re-applications before it fails.
    Last edited by plasma; 16th April 2012 at 11:48.
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    Regular Member XPCobra's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vauxhall Vectra Hatch

    Trim : SRI with added X-Pack

    Engine : 1.9 16v 150

    Year : 2006

    Mileage : Near 100K

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    Last time I replaced front to rear brake pipes on a vectra I just removed that plate, subframe won't fall off.
    Changing the n/s/r pipe behind the tank can be tricky, but can be done without dropping the tank and if you make the new pipe the same shape as the old one you can still clip it into its old plastic mount.

    Wd40 the plastic mounts before you remove the brake pipes from them, I managed to open the clips up and wiggle the old pipes out without breaking any of the mounts.

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    I bought some new clips (which come with the retaining bolt) to be safe (I'm bound to break something) but to release the old clips you 'just' pull out the 2 tabs on either side of the retaining bolt. This releases the tabs that fit over the washer behind the bolt head and so allows the clip to be pulled down. The bolt therefore doesn't need to be undone, which is a good job if yours are as rusted up as mine are.

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    Many thanks for the responses.

    Still wondering why the 'angle-tighten' is split into two stages and not shown as a single stage of 105 degrees? Do you perhaps wait for a period between stages?

    James. Do you squeeze the two tabs together?

    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Many thanks for the responses.

    Still wondering why the 'angle-tighten' is split into two stages and not shown as a single stage of 105 degrees? Do you perhaps wait for a period between stages?

    James. Do you squeeze the two tabs together?

    Dave
    No, pull the bottoms of the clips outwards. There's a gap where you can insert a screwdriver or similar on each clip - you can see one of them on the picture above. If you shine a torch up into the recess where the bolt is on the bottom of the bracket you should be able to see the 2 black plastic tabs over the washer - although it might need a bit of a clean out first. I haven't done it yet, but I guess you need to either somehow do both at the same time or do one first and stop it popping back while you do the other...

    The clip/bolt is part number 24403824 if you need any. The picture is wrong - it looks more like number 13 but it's actually number 14...

    http://opeloem.com/vauxhall/vectra_c...es_contd_.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by James24 View Post
    No, pull the bottoms of the clips outwards. There's a gap where you can insert a screwdriver or similar on each clip - you can see one of them on the picture above. If you shine a torch up into the recess where the bolt is on the bottom of the bracket you should be able to see the 2 black plastic tabs over the washer - although it might need a bit of a clean out first. I haven't done it yet, but I guess you need to either somehow do both at the same time or do one first and stop it popping back while you do the other...

    The clip/bolt is part number 24403824 if you need any. The picture is wrong - it looks more like number 13 but it's actually number 14...

    http://opeloem.com/vauxhall/vectra_c...es_contd_.html
    Many thanks James.
    I think I understand but it will be this afternoon (Monday) before I can have a look.
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by XPCobra View Post
    Last time I replaced front to rear brake pipes on a vectra I just removed that plate, subframe won't fall off.
    Changing the n/s/r pipe behind the tank can be tricky, but can be done without dropping the tank and if you make the new pipe the same shape as the old one you can still clip it into its old plastic mount.

    Wd40 the plastic mounts before you remove the brake pipes from them, I managed to open the clips up and wiggle the old pipes out without breaking any of the mounts.
    Thanks Cobra. With reference to my query on the tightening instructions for the plate? What did you do?
    Dave

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