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Thread: Calibrate a new MAF??

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    Default Calibrate a new MAF??

    Replaced the MAF to try and clear the loss of the turbo, but I need to calibrate it, or to just get the electronics to see it..

    Any ideas on how to do this please?

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Should just plug in.

    Have you got a battery voltage and a good ground of the wiring to the sensor.

    And a 5v reference voltage from the ecu?

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    Should just plug in.

    Have you got a battery voltage and a good ground of the wiring to the sensor.

    And a 5v reference voltage from the ecu?

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    Regular Member benny's Avatar
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    Why are you replacing a mass air to fix a turbo fault ? ... If its a 1.9 there is a option to program a new one but it can just be plugged in and works fine .... If you have lost the turbo check your vac pipes and see if the egr ain't jammed open ....

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    Pressure tested the turbo intercooler hoses, all ok

    New turbo and actuator valve recently

    Vac pipes all ok

    Cleaned the boost sensor in the head, dirty but all clean now.

    EGR is new, and blanked off

    At a loss now.....

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    Ive had a similar problem but my turbo did kick in over 3000RPM. What I did was to determine if the ECU was turning the turbo on to do this I did a bit of research on how the Turbo system actually works.
    Im sure you proberbly know this already but ill go over it just incase there is something being missed.
    The Turbo is physically 'turned on' by applying a vacuum to its actuator, the vacuum is created by the vac pump on the side of the engine (possible cause for the fault) and is swithced on and off by the actuator on the slam panel. The actuator gets its on off signal from the ecu and the ecu determines when to turn on/off using the boost senor on the inlet manifold.

    So all of the components need testing in a logical order. Firstly I tested to see if the actuator was indeed being switched on by the ECU. I did this using a multimeter, I pushed some stiff wire into the wiring plug on the actuator and connected long length of wire to this and ran it into the cab, then connected my meter to the end of the wire, then set the meter to measure volts (dc), the ECU supplies 12v to the actuator but switches the negative, this means that when the meter reads 12v then the actuator is OFF, when it reads anything less than 12v it is ON.
    With mine the second it dropped to 4v then my turbo kicked in, this told me that it was a problem with the boost sensor or manifold pressure (leaking egr/boost pipe etc..).
    If your drops to 4v and still no turbo then this is a vac issue, so either the vac pump isnt producing enough vacuum, or a leaky vac pipe, or faulty actuator valve on the slam panel or the actuator on the turbo or the turbo its self has sticky or hard to move veins.

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