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Thread: Glueing Swirl Valves in place on CDTI 150?

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    Red face Glueing Swirl Valves in place on CDTI 150?

    Anyone glued their swirl valves in the open postion? If so, did anyone use sugerglue?

    I replaced my egr, cleaned the gunk out of the inlet manifold bit that the egr bolts onto, Stared the engine up and the extra airflow flung the swirl valve linkage off, which was just hanging on for dear life anyway. All swirl valves (1,2 and 4, 3 is the motor one and stiff as expected) are nice n free and tried glueing rubber washers to the swirl valve bar but could not get it re-fitted, so, so, fiddly. I am now going to glue valves 1,2 & 4 at the 10 o'clock position (open) with superglue as the valves, being free moving, are just pleasing themselves when the engne is running. Any pre adice would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

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    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142503

    Done mine last year. No complaints at all

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    Thanks for that reply. This morning I visited B+Q for the superglue (nice new and runny as it goes off once opened for any length of time). Cut a drinking straw at a suitable length and taped that to the glue bottle nozzel thus giving an extention. Then I simply trickled the glue into the swirl valves on 1,2 and 4 which I had preset in the open position. I could see the glue disappear down the gaps so knew it would work. I left for a few hours and checked they were solid in the open position. Took the car for a run and perfect. Runs without issue and flies. Swirl valves still in open position.
    Only issue I have now is a little gas escaping from number 3 swirl valve. I can live with that because the pressure lost is small, however, if there are exhaust fumes enter the car cabin because of this then I will be forced to blank the gas from the EGR. I may do that anyway after the MOT.
    Here is hoping the inlet manifold will see out the car whichI will replace within the next 2 years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wickedwillie View Post
    Thanks for that reply. This morning I visited B+Q for the superglue (nice new and runny as it goes off once opened for any length of time). Cut a drinking straw at a suitable length and taped that to the glue bottle nozzel thus giving an extention. Then I simply trickled the glue into the swirl valves on 1,2 and 4 which I had preset in the open position. I could see the glue disappear down the gaps so knew it would work. I left for a few hours and checked they were solid in the open position. Took the car for a run and perfect. Runs without issue and flies. Swirl valves still in open position.
    Only issue I have now is a little gas escaping from number 3 swirl valve. I can live with that because the pressure lost is small, however, if there are exhaust fumes enter the car cabin because of this then I will be forced to blank the gas from the EGR. I may do that anyway after the MOT.
    Here is hoping the inlet manifold will see out the car whichI will replace within the next 2 years.
    Mine was leaking a little on Swirl 4. But I put so much glue over it, it's sealed it

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    Just unplug the egr & plug it back in for the mot... i have

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    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    Just unplug the egr & plug it back in for the mot... i have
    Yep, thats what I did with my old EGR when it was causing the car to go into limp mode, I disconnected it electrically.
    To preserve the new EGR though (from becoming bunged up with crap and possibly becoming siezed with a year of not being exercised between MOT's) I think I will blank the inlet to the EGR and leave the EGR connected so it is still opening and closing but just not passing any gas. Prior to MOT, will take the blanking plate out. 15 min job really.
    The other alternative is to disconnect the EGR and connect it every three or four months for a week to keep it semi active.

    By the way, thanks for all the very helpful postings. Its been over 20 years since I last got my hands dirty working on a car but, nothing to beat it during a nice sunny weekend.

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