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Thread: What is wrong with my 1.9 cdti 150?

  1. #1
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    Angry What is wrong with my 1.9 cdti 150?

    I have only owned my vectra just over 1 month and already it is doing my brain in with little faults.
    But recently I had the exhaust emission light stay on - had no power and car was definitely in limp mode!
    I called my mechanic I use and he said it is probably your EGR valve - if it happens again give me a call and I'll sort it etc etc.

    So it just seemed to go away - since the nice weather has been it has been fine.

    But now it seems to have really hit - the car has been so temperamental - sometimes no boost in first and second then all of a sudden boost.
    Also on start up - it makes an awful clunking noise in the engine bay and judders aggressively.

    Here is a video I took of the problem today (note in the video it has NEVER taken that long to start!):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odxoV...ature=youtu.be

    I have ordered some bg224 fuel system cleaner which is pretty good stuff. But is this more serious than a clogged EGR?
    It is very frustrating as I sold my 330 to save money (which I have on fuel) but it seems I am just going to be forever forking out to fix faults.
    the car has an excellent history with it and a great spec. So I hope it is just a small fault that can be sorted.

    All help is massively appreciated

  2. #2
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    Vehicle : 1.9CDTi(120)SRi


    Engine : 1.9DT

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 100k

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    Check the vacume pipes that go from the vac pump to the turbo, I had a split in mine causing the same boost problem, also the egr valve and boost sensor are likely to need a clean. Also make sure there are no splits in the big boost pipe from the turbo.
    The juddery starting and white smoke from the exhaust is probably just glow plugs.

  3. #3
    Regular Member CH-VECTRA-ELITE's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2006

    Mileage : 140000

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    Could be a number of things, sounds like EGR, but could be 3rd injector, boost pipe split, boost sensor or swirl bar.

    Have a look at these links

    EGR
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...ight=clean+EGR

    Boost sensor
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88845

    3rd Injector (looks like yours has been done as it's a different connector to the rest and you can see it's blue and not yellow)
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73584

    Swirl Bar
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104778

    Boost pipes
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...ost+pipe+split
    Buy from here
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-I-D-SI...item8263753233

    Glow plugs
    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92988

    Hope this helps
    Last edited by CH-VECTRA-ELITE; 11th March 2012 at 17:50.

  4. #4
    Full Member merikiito's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia CDTi SRi NAV 160

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : A20DTH

    Year : 2009

    Mileage : 88000

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    Ooh does not sound good, not sure what is causing it. DMF?
    Lois Griffin: Peter! You're bribing your daughter with a car?
    Peter Griffin: Ah, c'mon, Lois, isn't 'bribe' just another word for 'love'?

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    Thanks for replies. Boost pipes are ok as replaced these when I got it. My problem is not so much doing the jobs it is the time. I am a mature student running his own business. Weekends are spent on my ass on this computer writing up assignements!
    I normally like to have a go at doing jobs but I am not sure on that EGR valve job..

    It was plugged and no fault codes came up about a month ago.
    Would the bg224 fuel system cleaner help flush out the **** in the EGR valve?

  6. #6
    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

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    Firstly i'd make sure you get the codes read from a decent code reader.. Vauxcom or tech ii/iii

    Next - remove, strip and clean your EGR and boost sensors..

    then- look at the injectors. does the third plug in from the left as your looking at the engine look like its different (blue tag) - cant quite see from the vid - but might have already been done.

    To me from the vid - it sounds like chufing air... Wouldnt be supprised at all if it was your injector seals.. Are they all gummed up around where the injector sits in the engine..

    Are you local to Middlesex? I can help if you are?

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    Regular Member Mopar Man's Avatar
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    As said, you need to have it plugged in again. If the EML light came on, then it would have definitely stored a code. otherwise you are just clutching at straws. Try depressing the clutch when you start it from cold and see if the rattle disappears, if it does your DMF is on its way out.

  8. #8
    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    Just like mine was, Read all of my 'blue smoke & chugging related post's', By the way if you haven't already purchased the bg244 don't bother, if you have then its no prob but you will find it will solve the prob more than likely till its gone then you'll be back to square 1, But don't put it in after you have cleaned or replaced any fuel system parts it will only move crap around & cause further problems, Check for injectors leaking, or a loose or dirty connector, If this doesn't solve the problem firstly i would clean the rail sensors, Be very careful when re inserting the rail sensors ( screw in by hand, take your time & just nip them back up & don't go silly mad) re use the seals no probs just lubricate the threads & o-ring seal slightly with oil to aid fitting (if you cant or dont want to do this then go straight for injector value readings, the injector cold start/pre start settings are shot/out of scope & causing a rough idle), Then read the injector values with a code reading program, you will have 1 or more (more than one by the sound) injector value readings out of scope (should be within -3/+3), Swap round the offending injector/s with the good reading ones (this will rule out an electrical problem for the cylinder it has been removed from), If the bad reading stays with its original cylinder its an electrical fault,if the bad reading has moved to its new cylinder then its a recon injector job (around £60-75), By the way try starting & keeping the clutch in while it ticks over that should stop the clacking/banging that's due to the 'rough tickover' causing the DMF to agitate itself, my dmf cant be heard now on tickover but was the same as yours.
    Last edited by the-wizard; 11th March 2012 at 20:34.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AntSSSS View Post
    Firstly i'd make sure you get the codes read from a decent code reader.. Vauxcom or tech ii/iii

    Next - remove, strip and clean your EGR and boost sensors..

    then- look at the injectors. does the third plug in from the left as your looking at the engine look like its different (blue tag) - cant quite see from the vid - but might have already been done.

    To me from the vid - it sounds like chufing air... Wouldnt be supprised at all if it was your injector seals.. Are they all gummed up around where the injector sits in the engine..

    Are you local to Middlesex? I can help if you are?
    Thanks for this help - I am based in Cambridgeshire unfortunately. And also unfortunately I am not very good with cars - I simply have a go from guides so the above is a bit over my head! The mechanic I use is very very good - he teaches technicians and has worked for aston/mercedes etc and is very reasonable so I think I will contact him..

    I guess he will re - read the codes and go from there.

  10. #10
    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    Quote Originally Posted by rharris21 View Post
    Thanks for this help - I am based in Cambridgeshire unfortunately. And also unfortunately I am not very good with cars - I simply have a go from guides so the above is a bit over my head! The mechanic I use is very very good - he teaches technicians and has worked for aston/mercedes etc and is very reasonable so I think I will contact him..

    I guess he will re - read the codes and go from there.
    Dont take no bull go straight for the injector value readings after doing the basic checks i mentioned. ( the faulty injectors will not usually throw a fault code & will not register a fault code).

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