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Thread: Service Q's

  1. #1
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    Default Service Q's

    As usual, newbie questions from me, figured you could educate me. Apologies in advance for idiocy

    Im finally getting a chance to give the vectra a service (1.9 CDTi 120 2007) with the aid of the keys to the old man's work (you lucky people with your drives!). First service i've done on any car (usually palm it off on someone in exchange for beer tokens) so i'm just after a bit of advice really.

    First of all, i've heard the oil filter housings can be a pain in the rear to get off sometimes. Due to time constraints i was thinking of investing in a filter wrench/tool just in case its required. Looked on halfords to see whats available as ive only ever heard of chains that crush the filter...

    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255216

    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255216

    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255216

    Wondering whether the first one fits the filter housing for my car as i cant find any dimensions. Or do i get the strap or claw which i can adjust?


    ---------

    Next is the oil. Looked through my books but i cant find a definitive answer on the oil i need. Looked online and the general consensus is its either 0W40 or 5W30... Which one is recommended and should it be semi or fully synth?


    Also just to confirm, looking in my book i need 4.3 litres of oil (5ltr bottle) ???


    Also a really silly question maybe, but i'm probably gonna have to put the car on stands to get underneath to the filter. Should the car be put level to drain fully, or can it be left with the front end in the air whilst its draining ?


    Finally (think this is the end of it), should i run that Wynnes engine flush through before changing the oil. I've been told i should be doing this, but others have said it can loosen deposits and cause more harm than good.



    On a side note, i was gonna get my old man's 10W/40 oil for his citroen whilst i got my trade club discounts to exploit. I'm guessing there's no issue with using VX oil somewhere else? (heard it was just re-branded castrol or magnatec anyway??)

  2. #2
    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    Default

    By the book, you use GM-LL specification oil
    Hence why it shows both 0W40 and 5W30 grades, as it depends on the manufcturer

    If your car is under warranty, then keep to GM-LL specification
    If your car is out of warranty (and you don't plan to have third party warranty cover) then use any synthetic oil

    As for the amount
    I purchase two 4L bottles (and supply these for oil change) and receive about 1L back in the unused bottle
    For your engine this will give you about 3K back, so can use for future topups (plus it will be exactly the same oil)

  3. #3
    Forum Moderator John LE's Avatar
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    Default

    5/30 fully synth is normally the oil of choice for most on here

    You won't need a filter removal tool as the filter housing has a 32mm hex head

    Front end in the air will be fine as the sump plug is at the rear of the sump meaning you'll get everything out

    And yes it takes 4.3 litres

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    Default

    Cheers for the replies, fully synth 5/30 it is then. I would have gone by the book m8internet but i don't have a book with that info in it.

    What are peoples views on the engine flush? i was gonna drop a can in as ive got to drive 10 minutes or so to the work to do the oil change anyway. Is it a case of opinion and "use at your own risk" if it does happen to loosen a large piece of crud?

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    Default

    Also whats the deal with replacing the seals. Says i need a new seal for the sump plug, oil filter housing and the fuel filter housing? Does anyone ever replace these (im guessing they all cost pennies, if so i might just do it anyway?)

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    you will get oil filter rubbers in with the new filter , ive seen different types of seal on the sump plug to date , if the old one is in good nick it should be ok to re-use

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    Forum Moderator John LE's Avatar
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    Check the condition of the sump plug before you start and if there is any wear on the hex replace it and the washer too. Also note when removing the sump plug and filter that oil will start to come out before they are fully slackened.

    If you get a piece of garden hose you will be able to drain the filter housing before removing the filter

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    Quote Originally Posted by John IS3 View Post
    ...

    If you get a piece of garden hose you will be able to drain the filter housing before removing the filter
    I'm changing the oil in my 120 this weekend, and I've had my arm up to my elbow in old warm oile, eek! How does this bit of hose work / attach john? Curious to save me oiling up another "work" teeshirt and sparing me the wrath of her indoors lol!

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    Forum Moderator John LE's Avatar
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    There is aa little tube out of the bottom of the filter housing. Push the hose pipe onto there and route the pipe out of the way of the exhaust. About a foot of pipe would be sufficient

    Undo the filter until oil comes out of that pipe and let it drain for a bit. then remove the filter completely

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