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Thread: Vectra C 1.8 SRi Misfire when idle? HELP PLEASE?

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    Default Vectra C 1.8 SRi Misfire when idle? HELP PLEASE?

    1.8 Z18XE Engine.
    I have owned my Vectra C for a little over 5 weeks and always had this probem. I had it on a comupter a few weeks ago to see what problems was found...
    Both 02/Lambda sensors not working, Faulty Fuel Injector, Air Flow Mass Meter Not Funtioning...
    I have replaced 1 Lambda Sensor (top 1, before CAT)
    I have now replaced x4 Fuel injectors along with Injector Rail
    There is still no change, Only seems to misfire when IDLE, accelorates fine and drives fine but when engine is hot sometimes once stopped at traffic lights engine will cut out, i have to start her back up and she drives fine again untill ive stopped and ilding. Any ideas.
    The only thing i have not changed is the back Lambda Sensor (after CAT) and the Air Flow Mass Meter/Sensor, Dissconneting the Air Sensor has no change to how engine runs.

    Computer also said "P0303 CYLINDER 3 MISFIRE DETECTED"

    "Vectra C 1.8 SRi (Z18XE) 2002"
    Last edited by shaine415; 22nd February 2012 at 01:29.

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    Sounds like a spark plug or the coil pack to me, the weak point on this engine, but if you've disconnected the MAF and there's no difference that's worth changing too.

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    Thankyou, Will start with the cheapest and replace spark plugs. Thanks.

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    Mine cane up with p0304 cylinder 4 misfire last week!
    I cahanged the both spark plugs and coil pack and all is good now!

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    I changed the MAF recently due to bad misfiring & stumbling at Idle.
    I was also seeing hesitation & surging at speed. My emissions light was on.

    Removing the MAF did stop the hesitation & surging & improved the bad idle a bit, so I bought a new VDO MAF (original part, not aftermarket).

    That fixed the hesitation & surging, but still had bad idle when hot. Emissions light went our a few days later.

    The thermostat was faulty, never got to 90 degrees unless stopped in traffic, so I changed that + the temperature sensor also.

    Now all is fine again, no hesitation & smooth idle, acceleration is good now.
    MAF's appear to be hard to figure out, they probably fail in a few different ways. You could try what I did, disconnect the inlet pipe from the airbox, & with the car at idle, clamp your hand over the inlet pipe & see if the idle improves & stops misfiring. If it does, the MAF might be bad.

    Oh & check your thermostat also.

    I have a 2004 1.8SRi btw.

    Gerry

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerryo View Post
    I changed the MAF recently due to bad misfiring & stumbling at Idle.
    I was also seeing hesitation & surging at speed. My emissions light was on.

    Removing the MAF did stop the hesitation & surging & improved the bad idle a bit, so I bought a new VDO MAF (original part, not aftermarket).

    That fixed the hesitation & surging, but still had bad idle when hot. Emissions light went our a few days later.

    The thermostat was faulty, never got to 90 degrees unless stopped in traffic, so I changed that + the temperature sensor also.

    Now all is fine again, no hesitation & smooth idle, acceleration is good now.
    MAF's appear to be hard to figure out, they probably fail in a few different ways. You could try what I did, disconnect the inlet pipe from the airbox, & with the car at idle, clamp your hand over the inlet pipe & see if the idle improves & stops misfiring. If it does, the MAF might be bad.

    Oh & check your thermostat also.

    I have a 2004 1.8SRi btw.

    Gerry

    Cheers GERRYO, Will give that a go today, Will post back later and let you know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerryo View Post
    ..You could try what I did, disconnect the inlet pipe from the airbox, & with the car at idle, clamp your hand over the inlet pipe & see if the idle improves & stops misfiring. If it does, the MAF might be bad.
    I should probably give details of how to do this.

    With the MAF connected & the inlet pipe disconnected from the airbox, engine idling & misfiring, put your hand over the inlet pipe, let some air through your fingers. Listen to the idle, if there is no change, reduce the air through your fingers until it's nearly all blocked.

    At that point (in my case), the idle suddenly improved, misfires stopped.
    Don't do this too long, the inlet pipe starts to contract due to the vaccuum & might collapse, (though I think the engine will stall before that) no point is causing a split in the pipe.

    In my case the MAF was causing the engine to run really lean at idle & also during acceleration. I went for the original (= more expensive) VDO MAF (Siemens brand) as I heard some after market MAF's don't clear the codes.
    And, the original lasted 98K, I heard the aftermarket ones are not as long lived.

    Gerry

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    Fault maf,causing bad signals when running closed loop their for indicating bad lambda sensors aswel

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    Silly question, but when it said the MAF was not functioning why didn't you replace it?

    If the MAF fails it can lead to over fuelling which in turn burns out the sensors. So by not changing the MAF you will burn out the sensor you have replaced.
    Only replace it with a genuine one not a cheap one from ebay
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    Quote Originally Posted by merikiito View Post
    Silly question, but when it said the MAF was not functioning why didn't you replace it?

    If the MAF fails it can lead to over fuelling which in turn burns out the sensors. So by not changing the MAF you will burn out the sensor you have replaced.
    Only replace it with a genuine one not a cheap one from ebay
    Didnt know this mate, I thought i would start by changing the cheapest thing, Ive brought a MAF sensor now just not yet fitted, Fingers crossed it cures my misfire, I was thinking of taking throttle body off and cleaning that 2 as it looks like ive pourd OIL down there lol.

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