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Thread: Engine chatter.....dreaded DMF and clutch issues

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    Regular Member marky2027's Avatar
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    Default Engine chatter.....dreaded DMF and clutch issues

    Got some extra engine chatter/noise when i depress the clutch by a little way. Once I get to the biting point it stops and it doesn't seem to do it on idle with the clutch right up. By reading on here it seems this is the start of DMF and clutch problems.
    My dilemna is as follows...I am changing the car in 6 months and it's got 86k on the clock now. I have forked out loads on this car over the past few months and don't want to spend any more really. I have AA breakdown repair cover so as a consequence of leaving this matter and not changing it could it lead to a breakdown situation where I would hopefully be covered?? Could this happen suddenly or would it gradually get worse over a period of time? The breakdown cover gives me peace of mind but don't want to end up in a situation where I break down and the AA say that I should have known it was going to happen. Then again if I was your average vectra driver I would be totally unaware of this problem wouldn't I??

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    Regular Member BigWilko's Avatar
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    I'm sure i read on here somewhere when mine was going, that they don't actually fail, just the rattle gets worse and worse. I fear that it will just get louder and louder. Might inhibit your sale in 6 months though :/

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    Regular Member marky2027's Avatar
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    Yeah I was thinking about cutting my losses and selling it now but owe too much on it at present to change it....just my luck!!

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    Hi

    I had to change my DMF and clutch. The symptoms do gradually start getting much worse the longer you leave them, mine started with just a slight vibration when you depress the clutch an inch or so, it eventually became much stronger and I knew it was almost done when it would CLUNK on start and it got impossible to keep ur foot on the peddle as the vibrations would push it off!
    They do run for a while, i think i clocked over 1000 miles from noticing it to changing it, but the whole time your running the risk that you could do damage to your gearbox, and thats an expensive job. Also the clutch takes alot of stick from the DMF and the clutch plates or the DMF itself could shatter, if that happens your gonna ruin the gearbox.
    If it gets to the point when the AA are towing you home, ur probably gonna need a new gear box so dont let that happen!

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    Regular Member marky2027's Avatar
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    Looks like I will have to accept this and change DMF and clutch. What parts do I actually need? Do they have to be dealer parts? And lastly but more importantly how much am I looking at?

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    Regular Member marky2027's Avatar
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    Doing some more digging and could it be the clutch release bearing?? I say that like I know what it is . How do I know if it is the DMF and clutch or just this release bearing? Other than the noise there is no real vibration and no clutch slipping

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    I too have this problem so would be interested to hear any advice that is given. My clutch is silent when the pedal is out but as you depress it, there is a varying range of rattles and noises until fully depressed, where there is a knocking noise.

    What is a DMF??

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    I too have this problem so would be interested to hear any advice that is given. My clutch is silent when the pedal is out but as you depress it, there is a varying range of rattles and noises until fully depressed, where there is a knocking noise.

    What is a DMF??

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    My yoke has been rattling away on idle for longer than I can remember. Prob 30k miles ago.

    Only getting it done now as the alternator failed and thought I'd kill 2 birds.

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    for all you asking the question about DMF's, i have posted a few links which will exlpane how they work and wat they do. this is my second vectra my first one had 88k on the clock and as marky has said its a slight noise at first. i had never herd of a DMF and i thought it might be a thrust bearing but how wrong was i, had the car about 5 days noiticed the noise a hour or so after getting the car and then the timming belt stapped, still unsure if that caused it, the belt had never been changed so i think with the DMF being fked it threw it over the edge. once the head was sorted which cost me 450 it was never the same sounded like a sticky valve but got it checked and said it wasn't, drove fine right enough, but the rattle got worse and it got almost imposible to get it into first. then one day had enough and drove into my local vx garage and got a new vectra one with a warrenty traded that one in thankfully the saleman never started the engine so i got more trading it in than selling it the way it was,the car was worth 4 got it for 3300 engine broke cost me 450 then the 800 quid it would have cost to fix the flywheel ended up getting 1800 would have been lucky to get that for it privately bit of bad luck really. so my advise to you would be to get rid of it NOW before it gets anyworse hope they dont notice it and get ure self a new car but if ure keeping it bite the bulit and get that flywheel sorted sooner than later. sorry to scare you marky but its the truth and it won't go away lol so basicly it will get worse and it will get hard to get into gear and it might cause damage elsewhere in the engine or gear box. its going to caost bout 800 the subframe and everything has to come out thats y its so dear but cheaper than a new engine or gearbox. happy motoring
    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/dual-mass-flywheels/
    http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/du...opic42867.html
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ"]3D animation of dual mass flywheel - YouTube[/ame]

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