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Thread: Brake pipe flaring kits

  1. #1
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    Default Brake pipe flaring kits

    2004 Vectra 2.2 direct auto elite estate

    In order to replace corroded brake pipes I am looking for advice please on carrying out this task.

    Q1 Some are advertised as being single and double flaring tools - what please is the difference and of course which do I require?

    Q2 I am considering the Draper 37870 http://www.drapertoolbox.co.uk/drape...FecmtAodMD2q5w
    opinions please and/or other suggestions.

    Q3 I am considering brake pipes made of cupro-nickel - does this require any special tools or fittings.

    Q4 A more straight forward option is to go for the kits as advertised on e-bay which include the piping, flare kit and fittings. eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-A...ht_1151wt_1163
    I am however a wee bit wary of the quality. Anyone have any experience of these?

    Thanks Dave

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    Q1 Both types of flair are needed depending on the union connection. The first flare (male) gives a bulb or convex end, the second flare tool applied to the first flare will produce a concave end (female) like a Y shape. Dies for both types are included.

    Q2 I haven't tried this tool but reading a product test in car mechanics this type of flaring tool gives better results http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Brak...5#ht_713wt_952

    Q3 Cupro nickel is a better quality pipe but harder than copper and should be no problem for these tools. I believe copper brake pipes are banned in the states because they go brittle with age and easily split.

    Q4 A complete kit is cheapest way to go and with a bit of practice will give satisfactory results. Biggest problem with this type in the product test was the dies not accurately aligned giving a seam down each side of the flare.

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    As tridley says both types of flare can be needed but most tools do both... The best tools are bench mounted and produce accurate flares everytime but these cost a fortune. For a one off job a cheaper tool will do.

    I have used the laser one that tridley suggested and it does produce a good flare even if the pipe is on the car.... It is a good compromise between an industrial one @£100+ but better that the cheap ones you see for around £10 which are are hard to use properly...

    Cupro nickel is a good pipe for brakes but more expensive than copper or steel...

    Finally double check the threads before you order any fittings... Just because the car is relatively new does not mean they are metric. I made this mistake on a 2007 toyota which still had UNF thread forms on the fittings for the calipers.... Brake calipers may be an old design or may be bought in from a country which still uses UNF threads even on a new car so check before you buy!

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    Thank you gentlemen, I have placed my order for the recommended flaring tool.

    On my 2004 vectra elite estate are the brake fittings Metric or is there a possibility that they may be UNF?

    Thanks,

    Dave

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    Bought some pipe and fittings from clarikengineeringsupplies on ebay which are for vauxhall and the unions are M10x1 though I haven't used them yet. The pipe is 3/16. HTH

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    Default Renewing corroded brake pipes

    2004 vectra 2.2 auto elite estate

    Thanks tridley, that's the pipes and unions ordered. (So when do you hope to tackle the job as I might wait for you and learn more)?

    Ok guys flaring tool and unions ordered. Any recommendations/ suggestions for a cutting tool and a deburrer?
    It appears they are not a definite requirement but if it would make the job better or easier I'll go for them.

    The pipes I need to replace are the ones that go from the front to the back of the car. Does anyone know if these can be done on the estate without dropping the tank ?

    Thanks,
    Dave

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    Full Member merikiito's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia CDTi SRi NAV 160

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : A20DTH

    Year : 2009

    Mileage : 88000

    Default

    All I did was take the size to my local Motor factors who made the pipes up. Much cheaper than buying all the bits for DIY.

    The only thing I brought was a pipe bender whcih was really cheap on Ebay
    Lois Griffin: Peter! You're bribing your daughter with a car?
    Peter Griffin: Ah, c'mon, Lois, isn't 'bribe' just another word for 'love'?

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    Thanks merikito.
    As the stuff is largely already on order I'll just go ahead and do it myself.
    As I've never made up brake pipes before I'm actually looking forward to learning something, new though I've little doubt the actual fitting will probably be a nightmare!
    Dave

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    Regular Member cossiejay's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra

    Trim : sri 150

    Engine : 1.9 cdti

    Year : 2007

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mucklestone View Post
    As tridley says both types of flare can be needed but most tools do both... The best tools are bench mounted and produce accurate flares everytime but these cost a fortune. For a one off job a cheaper tool will do.

    I have used the laser one that tridley suggested and it does produce a good flare even if the pipe is on the car.... It is a good compromise between an industrial one @£100+ but better that the cheap ones you see for around £10 which are are hard to use properly...

    Cupro nickel is a good pipe for brakes but more expensive than copper or steel...

    Finally double check the threads before you order any fittings... Just because the car is relatively new does not mean they are metric. I made this mistake on a 2007 toyota which still had UNF thread forms on the fittings for the calipers.... Brake calipers may be an old design or may be bought in from a country which still uses UNF threads even on a new car so check before you buy!

    i have the one that cost a tenner on ebay and it is very easy to use i have done alot of brake pipes with it and never had any problems with it

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    Quote Originally Posted by cossiejay View Post
    i have the one that cost a tenner on ebay and it is very easy to use i have done alot of brake pipes with it and never had any problems with it
    That is good, I was simply reffering to the fact it is hard to keep it square when on the car and the fact that the formers are often not as accurate as on the better ones... It is possible to use them well of course but I think for someone who has never done it before it is a way safer option to use the better one as it is definately way easier to get a good flare and they are a safety system afterall....

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