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Thread: Anti-roll bar links - easy to fit?

  1. #1
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    Default Anti-roll bar links - easy to fit?

    My Dad's Vec (06 CDTI 150 Elite Estate) has just come back from MOT and advisory of front anti roll bar link has slight play in one ball joint...

    Which i presume will be one of these:

    http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/...24417251N.html

    Cheap enough.....how easy are they to fit?...is it just two nuts off, remove old unit, fit new unit and tighten nuts?....presume they need torqueing?, and will it need tracking after?

    Thanks

    *oh and are they worth doing in pairs?
    Last edited by MadOnVaux!; 23rd January 2012 at 18:22.

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    Regular Member lee gsi's Avatar
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    Dont fit cheap ones.

    Get some uprated SAAB ones as they will last so much longer and no you wont need to do the tracking.

    As for fitting there is a guide: http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46475

    Normaly if one is worn the other goes within 6 months so as the tools are out you might aswell.

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    Regular Member Ben50n's Avatar
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    Did one on my Pug 406, it is indeed a case of removing two nuts and then using a ball joint seperator.

    Hopefully the balljoints have some method of holding the centre pin, some have an allen key hole, others my have other methods of gripping the central threaded part. Otherwise, it could be quicker, just to cut them off.

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    Cheers for the replys guys

    Lee, By cheap do you mean aftermarket?...The ones i've linked aare genuine Vauxhall, £7each plus postage...a pair delivered for £21.96.

    It does sound an easy enough job for me to do, but i dont own a ball-joint seperator, what are the chances i will definitely need one.

    Does anyone know the tourque setting for tightening the nuts?

    Thanks again, really appreciate it

  5. #5
    Regular Member lee gsi's Avatar
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    Ah if they are genuine yes worth getting and no you wont need a ball joint separator.

    The normal problem is that you cant get a spanner on the back to stop the ball joint turning when removing the old ones.

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    jack car up put on axle stand.
    17mm spanner to stop the back nut spinning and 18mm for the nut at the front.(top part that is then reverse for the bottom nut).
    then lift the wheel hub by about an inch with the jack and they will just slide out.
    if you have ratcheting spanners then even better.well, unless you can fit a ratchet and 18mm socket on the bottom nut that is,if so then just use the socket and a 17mm spanner.

    top tip of the day is to check that the rubber gaitor has not come loose from the metal clip after you have finished, as this is what i failed my M>O>T for, the rubber wasn't secure so it allowed an ingress of dirt.

    unless vx have changed them shortly then those in the link are not genuine parts.genuine ones don't have that black plastic cover on them.

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    Regular Member XPCobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee gsi View Post
    Ah if they are genuine yes worth getting and no you wont need a ball joint separator.

    The normal problem is that you cant get a spanner on the back to stop the ball joint turning when removing the old ones.
    a good pair of vice grips does the trick nicely.

    I personally wouldnt bother with aftermarket ones or vauxhall ones, they wear out or the rod bends too easily. The uprated ones are the way to go

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    Cheers for replys folks

    I just realised the ones in the link are not actually genuine...I had wondered what the 'N' was after the part number, and it means non genuine....but, i have bought off that company in the past and all the parts are either genuine, or the same quality, and at that price it's hard to argue really

    I'd really appreciate it if anyone knows the torque setting for the nuts please?

    Thanks again

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    Regular Member Ben50n's Avatar
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    There is a few posts on here about buying the uprated SAAB ones from NEO Brothers? I am sure someone will be along soon to confirm.

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    I had a look on NEO Brothers...and it is the same part number, so they may be genuine, but not uprated?

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