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Thread: 1.9 diesel/150 bhp - EGR advice please

  1. #1
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    Default 1.9 diesel/150 bhp - EGR advice please

    I have a Saab '06 93 TID 150 bhp, with 101k miles, which I understand has a similar (same?) engine as many VX, Fiat and GM models.

    I followed the excellent HoTo on this site to remove and clean the EGR valve about 20kmiles back, to fix starting and low rev problems.

    In the last week, I have had some start issues, and removed the EGR again. Not much carbon build-up, this time. I wasn't able to remove the plunger from the solenoid body, but it seemed to be moving OK (drilled hole, and added WD40 - but concerned about hitting it too hard and damaging it - ha, ha). Valve was also moving freely.

    Put it back on, but now have huge starting problem (that is, much, much worse than what I was trying to fix). I assumed this must be no power reaching the solenoid, and have tried to re-connect the lead several times, with no improvement. I removed the valve again, checked, re-cleaned, then re-fitted. Seemed to start OK. But... no power at all. Now it will hardly start.

    Can anyone advise what I might be missing here?

    Anything I can check to confirm power is reaching the solenoid, or to test that the valve is (not) working? Would I be better off just replacing the EGR, given the age, and having already removed/cleaned once?

    I don't want to buy a new valve (seems to be around UK £90) only to find there is (still) a problem somewhere else...

    Any thoughts and advice gratefully received (other than "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" :-)).

    Thanks in advance/paul

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    Is the EGR valve moving freely?
    If it's stuck open, then exhaust gases will come through and suffocate the engine on startup. I don't think the EGR should open on startup or tickover.

    Disconnect the EGR electrical connector and try starting it. That will bring up the EML light, but prove the EGR is/isn't at fault

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    Default Disconnect

    Thanks for the response.

    Yes, I tried disconnecting the lead. It was the same - very long time to start, starting only with heavy right foot, then not catching cleanly, then stalling again (much smoke...).

    After cleaning the EGR, I did check that the valve part (as well as the plunger from the solenoid side) was moving freely.

    At this point, I'm now not sure whether the EGR (valve + solenoid) is working, and I'm not getting a solid contact with the connector/lead, or whether my cleaning efforts have finally caused the solenoid to give-up.

    Was wondering if I took the valve off again, and tried to connect 12V/ground to the pins in the valve, would I see the valve move?

    Not sure if it is 12V (maybe 5V?), or which terminal is supply/ground (can maybe figure that part from the lead/wire colours).

    Thanks/paul

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    Just re-read your post. I think you are right. It shouldn't allow inlet/exhaust sides to join at start-up.

    With the lead off, I see the same problem, so it does indicate that the valve itself is in the wrong state (stuck open) for starting, so the EGR itself is faulty...

    Sorry for being slow on the uptake...

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    Blank it off & live without it, your manifold will last a little longer

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    Thanks, dh.dti - been looking into this - seem to be parts and a number of options for this - will let you know how it goes.

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    If you've cleaned the valve bit, then I would assume it's closing properly. (does the sprung plunger return to the closed position?)
    Blanking it off would untimately prove it's at fault. But in true Vx fashion, be prepared for it being something else that's wrong.

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    Regular Member Gavin2.6's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 1.9 cdti SRI & 2.6 Vec B & Mk1 Fiesta XR2

    Trim : 2 batteries. 2k RMS. 2x 15 SPL's

    Engine : CDTI 200 16V


    Default

    It will be the solenoid. Have you got Opcom. If so get multimeter on the plug and use opcom to activate the EGR. Should see voltage changes. If so then solenoid is dead and no matter how much you clean the valve it still wont work. They dont accept a good beating to well. My mate dropped a brand new working one on the floor from no more then 2 foot and it died. valve still spot on but solenoid would not move it.

    If you dont have opcom. Once car running disconnect the EGR and stick multimeter on it and rev it over 3k. should see action on the multimeter. If no multimeter then buy one....

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    Blank off, map out, sorted.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Penfold101 View Post
    Blank off, map out, sorted.

    Map out = Higher cost then a replacement and modded gasket but is the way forward.

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