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Thread: Inlet Manifold

  1. #1
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    Default Inlet Manifold

    The inlet manifold needs doing on my car.

    I've read and read about it. I have a good idea of what needs doing.

    However I'm not sure as to how much I should be paying for it labour wise.

    Parts seem to be about £300 for the manifold and actuator, but I've seen people saying they paid £380 for it all fitted, which I can't work out how.

    I'm in Newcastle if anybody can recommend a good mechanic in the area to do the work.

  2. #2
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    I brought a brand new gm actuator off ebay for £99 but alot of people say you dont need to replace this and you can always replace it later if needed easily, i brought my inlet manifold, gasket, link bar from LMF for about £200 delivered. i chickened out and let vxl fit the parts for 4.5 hours labour at £384 pounds so total was £683.00 (private garage was same labours price as they quoted 8 hours labour so thought may as well let vxl do it) HTH

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    Is the actuator easy to get at compared to the manifold itself?

    I actually drive a saab,( don't shoot me) but the vectra forums are a lot more knowledgeable about the CDTI than the saab ones.

    Saab want £620 for the part and labour, which isn't that bad really. I imagine it would be cheaper if I buy the parts myself as well and they fit them.

    £89 = vat an hour labour though.

    does the manifold not come with the link bar fitted?

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    as a temporary measure you can remove the swirl bar & glue flaps 1,2 &4 in the open position... car will run fine

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    It's actually running ok (touches wood) just now other than the roughish start. I presume they have stuck open.
    The swirl bar is well and truly removed already.

    Other than a bit of low speed jerkyness, which saab thinks is down to this. does it make any difference having the flaps stuck open?

    How do I know if they are open, do I turn them clockwise or anticlockwise?

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    they are open when they are pointing to 10 oclock, mine are bonded open, there is no jerkyness or rough running at all... the jerkyness could be down to them flapping about

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    ^ that is very interesting.

    I've been wondering about this since the BMW could have them blanked off.

    What did you use to bond them open? I presume I have no control over number three since it's the directly connected to the actuator.

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    I have used evo stick liquid metal from Halfords... you could disconnect the actator & bond no. 3 too, but it's not a problem if it's still moving as it should... there's quite a few folk now who have bonded them open, one guy has even welded up an old manifold removing the flaps altogether with no ill effects... i myself looked heavily into this with a very trust worthy mechanic & the flaps are only closed on idle to aid a cleaner burn with the egr operation, & just to add i have unplugged the egr valve

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    Without, sounding like a chump.

    I take it I just turn the bits that the bar was attached to clockwise to open them up.

    How long have you ran without swirlflaps and has it effected the fuel economy at all?

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    That was going to be my next question about the EGR.

    I was planning on a remap, so would get the EGR mapped out (along with that ****** DPF).

    Are there any photos of the bonded swirl flaps?

    I'm picturing it as turn the bobbin bit, put a drop of liquid metal on and wait for it to cure.

    Does that sound about right?

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