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Thread: Effects of swirl bar issues.

  1. #1
    Regular Member AlexGSi2000's Avatar
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    Default Effects of swirl bar issues.

    Just after abit of advice really.

    Basically, I purchased my Vectra quite cheaply in April this year (I have done 30,000 miles since).

    The car has done 180,000 miles - I purchased it as I needed to get around after my other car got written off.

    I decided to go for the Vectra 1.9 150 as parts are relatively cheap and its a damn sight cheaper to run than my old car - so using it as a chance to save a little as well.

    As the car is high mileage now - bodyworks not the greatest, interior is tatty.etc - I plan to run it into the ground, & needs to last me ideally until next November (I reckon I will do about 40,000 miles in this time).

    I have noticed abit of an issue with the swirl bar - the actuator bar is fine, but where the actual swirl flaps attach to the bar, one or two have come away (they move freely in the manifold)
    This is causing them to rattle about a little with abit of fuel coming through - I may try DIY fixing them, but ideally I Dont want to replace the manifold - as I would be inclined to start replacing other bits and bobs then, which isn't what I want to do.

    What are the long-term effects of not repairing the manifold? Will something go catastrophically wrong, or will I just loose abit of MPG and smoke a little? - If so I can put up with it until I get rid of the car.

    Many thanks!

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    What you need is some carb cleaner & some liquid metal from halfords

    remove the link rod altogether, unplug all the glow plugs to aid access... clean/degrease the area well, point the swirl tops 1,2 & 4 into the open position & then using the liquid metal bond them in place, if you use enough bonding you will also cure the minute boost leak too
    the liquid metal will take 24hrs to cure properly although you should be ok to drive after a couple of hrs

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    Regular Member AlexGSi2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    What you need is some carb cleaner & some liquid metal from halfords

    remove the link rod altogether, unplug all the glow plugs to aid access... clean/degrease the area well, point the swirl tops 1,2 & 4 into the open position & then using the liquid metal bond them in place, if you use enough bonding you will also cure the minute boost leak too
    the liquid metal will take 24hrs to cure properly although you should be ok to drive after a couple of hrs
    Sounds interesting - have you done this?
    Any side effects?

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    I have done this as a temporary repair, there's no side effects at all... the motor drives 100%.
    I am not the only one who has locked the valves open... after looking into this my conclusion is, the flaps are only there for a cleaner burn whilst the engine is on idle... once the throttle is applied the flaps open... in addition to this i have unplugged the egr valve - this brings on the emissions light but does not hinder the running of the engine at all.

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    Regular Member AlexGSi2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    I have done this as a temporary repair, there's no side effects at all... the motor drives 100%.
    I am not the only one who has locked the valves open... after looking into this my conclusion is, the flaps are only there for a cleaner burn whilst the engine is on idle... once the throttle is applied the flaps open... in addition to this i have unplugged the egr valve - this brings on the emissions light but does not hinder the running of the engine at all.
    May have to give this a go then! Thanks for the advice! - How do you know the swirl flaps are in the open position?

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    I have done this as a temporary repair, there's no side effects at all... the motor drives 100%.
    I am not the only one who has locked the valves open... after looking into this my conclusion is, the flaps are only there for a cleaner burn whilst the engine is on idle... once the throttle is applied the flaps open... in addition to this i have unplugged the egr valve - this brings on the emissions light but does not hinder the running of the engine at all.
    They are open when engine is off. When you turn the key they close over and only when the engine speed exceeds 2,500rpm they open again. Tumble effect is to mix the Fuel/Air and oil/exhaust gases up at low engine speeds. At higher rpms you would want high air flow, so the flaps open up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexGSi2000 View Post
    May have to give this a go then! Thanks for the advice! - How do you know the swirl flaps are in the open position?
    they're open when they are positioned at 10 oclock & as Gazza states below they are open when engine is not running.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazza4 View Post
    They are open when engine is off. When you turn the key they close over and only when the engine speed exceeds 2,500rpm they open again. Tumble effect is to mix the Fuel/Air and oil/exhaust gases up at low engine speeds. At higher rpms you would want high air flow, so the flaps open up.
    I have watched these move while a mechanic revs the engine gently, they are half way open at 1500 rpm & fully open at 2k

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

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    Year : 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by dh.dti View Post
    they're open when they are positioned at 10 oclock & as Gazza states below they are open when engine is not running.


    I have watched these move while a mechanic revs the engine gently, they are half way open at 1500 rpm & fully open at 2k

    Had someone rev mine and the bar moves at 2,500 bud. Then this may be down to how it is driven possibly then, actuator learns driving. Even the mechanic who fixed mine said the same.

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