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Thread: Z19dth cambelt change!!

  1. #1
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    Default Z19dth cambelt change!!

    Just contemplating doing the cambelt/water pump myself, i hope its within my ability but having watched a vids and reading some how 2's i couldnt see anyone using any sort of locking tools, are they really needed or can you just crank it round till markers line up for tcd, release tensioner and refit all and just make sure no markers have moved. Only reason i ask is as im having a go myself im trying to save some cash and to buy these locking kits its about £90, any help would be greatly appreciated.

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    Regular Member lee gsi's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

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    Engine : 1.9 CDTi

    Year : 2005

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    Aslong as you align everything and mark everything you dont need any locking tools.

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    Just a silly question but how much are these cams/crank likely to move unless you put a socket on there and deliberatly move it a notch or 2?

    Also the only thing that bothers me slightly is getting the right tension on the belt, how will i know when its taught enough?

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    Sealey do two versions of the locking tools - one manufactured in China (about £45) and the other German made (approx £100). I found the tolerances on the Chinese version OK. The crank tool could have done with oil pump peg being made better, but it still fitted with no movement for me.

    I found that the timing belt tensioner bolts into a 'floating' nut on the block. So when you come to tension it (the timing belt tensioner,) the nut slides in its groove rather than the spring assembly rotation the tensioner cog/wheel back. (It's not easy to put into words but very obvious once off the car).

    The best tip I can give - mark the existing (the one on the car now) tensioner and block so that if you remove the tensioner, you can then re-align it with said mark, as if you were to re-use it. Take the old tensioner and new one, hold them up to each other (back to back) and transpose the mark onto the new tensioner (they should be identical - check they are before removing the old one).

    Get the locking kit - it's very easy with it and will help boost you confidence. I'll see if I can find a link to the version I bough later.

    Your should be able to twist the belt about 45 degrees when adjusted properly, although, I've not heard were in the loop you should do this e.g between the cams or between the HP pump cam and water pump.


    bb
    Last edited by bb_cdti; 8th November 2011 at 15:21.

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    Regular Member goosey_1976's Avatar
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    I had a go at mine at 72,000 miles as I was reading on here about all the failures and the fact Vauxhall recommend 100,000 miles.. I actually couldn't see the water pump lasting that long, but found to my horror they had been replaced prior to me buying the car.. I am a fitter by trade but diesel engines ain't my area, but thought i'd have a go anyway.

    When you strip it down and get to the belt, align the marks on the crank pulley and the casing and if I remember the camshaft mark should be at about 2 o'clock. This is the pulley nearest the front of the engine.. The second pulley is the high pressure fuel pump. I marked all three of these these with a tippex pen, and then loosened the tensioner off and removed the belt. In the kit I bought I had a replacement tensioner and guide pulley which I also changed.. Then after replacing the tensioner and belt I tensioned the belt. This was achieved by matching up a small "spike" to a groove in the tensioner mounting and then nipping the nut up as it slide inside the casting. Then I used a socket and bar to manually turn the engine and check the movement of the tensioner. This was also to test interference between pistons and valves incase anything had moved.. Then I cracked on and put it all back together. Fired it up and yeeehaa.. I didnt bend owt!!

    P.S. I did change the water pump too.. Cost 80 quid for the cam kit and 35 quid for water pump
    Last edited by goosey_1976; 12th November 2011 at 19:50. Reason: missing info

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    I did my belt yesterday with no special tools,there is timing marks for the camshaft on the pulley and and on the casing,however the mark on the crank pulley does not line up to the mark on the casing,
    When you buy a belt from say vaux or gates they have the marks on the belt that will line up with the marks on both pulleys so it makes it very easy, the pump pulley does not need to be lined to anything,you can not go wrong.
    My car is a 120dth but the set ups are both the same

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    Regular Member stevie16v's Avatar
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    As above I've done mine a couple of weeks back. Had to get a T50 or T55 torx socket aswell as other ones, think it was E18. I done mine in a few hours, took my time and made several marks to ensure it was spot on. It was much was much easier than I thought It'd be. There's a really good how to on here. I followed TIS aswell and all been good so far. I felt as though the car was pulling better and idling smoother. Mine had done 54k and had a split in it so got it in the nick of time

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