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Thread: Swirl flap actuator

  1. #1
    Regular Member jofenan's Avatar
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    Default Swirl flap actuator

    Just wondering if there is anyway of disabling the swirl flap actuator while it's still on the car without causing any warning lights to come on?

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    Admin plasma's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 150

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 74000

    Default

    You might be able to disconnect the swirl bar on top of the engine or the one from the motor underneath, but why?
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  3. #3
    Regular Member jofenan's Avatar
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    Ok bit of a long story. My dpf blocked a few months ago and I went down the removal and remap route. (must say mas were spot on. Highly recommended). Anyway. After the remap the car was smoking like crazy and we lifted of the beauty cover to find a very gunked up inlet manifold and a fallen off linkage bar. I did the tap washer fix for a while but after reading a few posts decided to just seal the flaps in the open position. A bit of superglue and then some chemical metal over the top to seal it has worked a treat. It's just that number 3 is obviously still moving and leaking. I do about 50k a year in my Vectra so just replacing a known problem just for it to go again isn't an option. Ok if you only do 10k a year. It probably would last until you sold the car but it's not viable for me to keep shelling out for dmf's and swirlflaps every year!!

    I didn't realise the actuator was connected by a rod underneath. How do I get to it?

  4. #4
    Regular Member Innes's Avatar
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    They re-designed the manifold after 2007 to take account of the design fault. A new updated manifold should be ok.

  5. #5
    Regular Member jofenan's Avatar
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    Obviously not well enough. Mines a 2008 and on it's second engine!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jofenan View Post
    I did the tap washer fix for a while but after reading a few posts decided to just seal the flaps in the open position. A bit of superglue and then some chemical metal over the top to seal it has worked a treat. It's just that number 3 is obviously still moving and leaking.
    Can you let me know what product you used over the top of the glue?


  7. #7
    Regular Member jofenan's Avatar
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    Can't remember the product name but it's made by wynns. It comes in a roll like plasticine. It's a bit like a mini arctic. You mix the inner and outer bits together and it's rock hard in half an hour ish. It can be used on exhausts so can take the heat easy. Got mine from my local factors. Cost about £7

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    exellent... thanks, i will be locking 1, 2 & 4 open at the weekend, if i can get my hand down far enough to remove the actuator rod i will be doing the 3rd too

  9. #9
    Regular Member jofenan's Avatar
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    Just popping off the glow plug leads helps no end.I could get my fingers to each flap to make sure I got a good seal. I ran the car for a bit then used a mini steam cleaner on the manifold. There's a little picture on the swirl flap to show you where fully open is. It's about 10 o clock if looking from the front. Also the 3rd one is fully open with the ignition off it closes as soon as you start the car and opens proportionally as the engine speed rises.

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    Yeah i have had a little play in there already when i last popped the bar back on... is your egr now mapped out as well?

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