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Thread: Swirl flaps

  1. #1
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    Default Swirl flaps

    This forum is really great for info. I have read through the many posts with regard to the swirl flaps, linkage, actuator etc. I do intend to remove, decoke, clean and refit my manifold assembly some time in the future. At the moment, everything is working fine, but as mine is a 2006 car, I think it may have the original design manifold assembly. I have seen some horror pics of coked-up flaps, and the pic which shows a massive amount of wear in the top bearing is frightening. Can one simply unscrew the lower pivots, then remove the spindles and flaps, via the removal of flap screws like carburettor butterflies? I would dearly like to get some nice brass bearings turned up with grooves for O rings built in; I plan to do this when I have some holiday booked to give me plenty of time. I also note that some have found it very difficult to refit the swirl bar after carrying out the mod with n/plate screw caps or tap washers, and wondered if it would be a good idea, once the method has been decided, to try the items for fit over the spindle 'knobs' to avoid difficulty when ultimately putting the bar back on? Just a thought. I can understand, with all the heat in there, why much attention needs to be paid to the type/brand of adhesive.

  2. #2
    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

    Default

    Super glue blank rubber tap washers & drill to size, lightly grease to aid re- fitting, I wouldn't bother messing around with the old manifold new are about £168.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the-wizard View Post
    Super glue blank rubber tap washers & drill to size, lightly grease to aid re- fitting, I wouldn't bother messing around with the old manifold new are about £168.
    Thanks Wizard. I suppose that doesn't seem too bad. but - how does one ID the latest issue of manifold? also there are conflicting reports on whether a new actuator has to also be obtained.
    TIA
    Pete

  4. #4
    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

    Default

    Have a look at the how 2 i'm in, everyone i know personally has not changed the motor * my local vx dealer don't change it either so! why if they don't, the swirl flap is slightly elongated & is a two piece swirl not one like the first type, old & new shown here.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92898

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92554

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    some have removed the swirl flaps something I plan if i ever suffer the linkage failure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the-wizard View Post
    Have a look at the how 2 i'm in, everyone i know personally has not changed the motor * my local vx dealer don't change it either so! why if they don't, the swirl flap is slightly elongated & is a two piece swirl not one like the first type, old & new shown here.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92898

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92554
    Cheers Wizard - had a look at mine while doing my service today, looks like the car has the later type. But there is a teeny bit of oily leakage, hardly anything, around No. 3 spindle. Will keep an eye on it. The flaps are moving OK at this time.
    Pete
    PS - when I fitted my new air filter, found it was different to previous in that there is a 5mm layer of white lightweight foam stuck to the vanes. Thought it was for transit protection, but it is well & truly stuck there. Tempted to remove it, as it looks to me like it could slow down air flow. Also happy to report that there is no tube in the bottom of the filter, as per tuning tip!

  7. #7
    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    Your manifold should be ok for now then, Some air filters do vary depending on make so it should be ok, I did the air box spout removal but put it back in because it wasn't as smooth with it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the-wizard View Post
    Your manifold should be ok for now then, Some air filters do vary depending on make so it should be ok, I did the air box spout removal but put it back in because it wasn't as smooth with it out.
    Cheers Wizard

    Can't try it with the spout back in cos it aint there!

    Seems to run OK though

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    The new manifolds aren't bullet proof either so don't be under illussions - but that depends if it's down to the EGR valve and oil vapour mixing in the manifold - which I do think is the reason for eventual failure.

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    I will be locking the flaps open with an epoxy putty at the weekend to see what the difference is, i'm currently running with no link bar & it's running fine, the flaps still move freely.

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