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Thread: Advice Please?

  1. #1
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    Default Advice Please?

    Hi,

    I have a red Vectra estate SRi 150 and when I bought it a few weekends ago it had terrible paintwork. Really badly faded and looking more pink than red! See picture 1 as an example!

    So I hadn't read through the very helpful guides in this forum and set to with the T-Cut to sort it out!! I know after reading that I maybe shouldn't of done this!

    However the finish was much better?

    And so to my current question, the finish is better however I am still not 100% happy as there is a difference between the plastic parts of the car and the metal parts. I would very much like to know if it is possible to get this back?

    It appears that the plastic bumpers and door strips hold the deep red colour and the metal sections dont? It currently looks ok, I gave it another going over this weekend, 2 buckets, Megs ultimate compound, then AG srp and I'm still not happy though! See pictures 2 and 3.

    So any ideas on how to make the paintwork look as "deep" as the plastic?

    I have been reading about clay, would this help?

    Any feedback gratefully received!

  2. #2
    Regular Member DeeBe's Avatar
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    I didn't even know they still used two-pack paint!

    Anyways, the paint used doesn't really have a lacquer layer as the paint creates its own shine. I'd use a tub of Farecla G3 and a DA polisher, but make sure to get paint readings first so you know how thick it is. Keep the panels wet to prevent too much heat build-up and keep applying the G3 liberally. It'll all come back a deep red eventually. Dn't be too frightened when the polishing pad is red - it's just the dead paint being removed - you don't get this with a clear-coated car.

    Afterwards, keep it well waxed and sealed.

  3. #3
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    Ah good old flame red!

    I have a flame red SRi myself and had the exact same issue.

    The method I used was as follows.

    1) Wash 2BM
    2) De-tar
    3) Clay
    4) Wash 2nd time
    5) AG SRP (2 coats) - It has an abrasiveness factor of approx 0.5-1 on a scale of 10
    6) HD Wax

    I had to do mine by hand as I don't have a DA. The SRP requires working in to the paint work fully until it becomes tacky. At this point the polish has broken down and done its job. Buff off any remaining residue (should be very little. Only work 12" by 12" squares at a time and keep the applicator pad damp to ensure even coverage and maximum working time.

    I did this over the entire car twice to fully remove the fade/oxidised paint. I then sealed the finish with AG HD wax to protect the freshly polished paint. Although SRP is marketed as an AIO a lot of people use it as a polish to enhance paint before the LSP is applied. On its own it I found SRP would only last about a week before the fade appeared again. Then I found Detailing World and learnt I needed to apply a wax over the SRP to protect the freshly polished paint work from fading again!

    As DeeBe said don't be afraid of a red polishing pad, it's all good! SRP in its nature is not a very abrasive product. My pads were a lovely deep shade of red!

    I find I wax the car every 2 months minimum to keep the fade at bay.

    My car is still red!
    Last edited by Lean6; 14th September 2011 at 10:49. Reason: Brain Fail

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    Regular Member Ginge7289's Avatar
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    Do you have a machine polisher?

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    Regular Member Marky's Avatar
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    Are you wanting to clean up the exterior plastic (including the roof rails)??

    I am planning to get some GTechni4 C4 restorer to hopefully restore the faded plastic bits. It isn't cheap but you only need a miniscule amount and people say it really does work.

    http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/...ic.php?t=11172

  6. #6
    Ex Vec-C Admin Deztroyer's Avatar
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    great advise above....

    looks like a clear case of car left in the same position with shade covering the near side of the car for a very very very very long time or repeatedly left in the same place to cause that ...

    sounds like as the new keeper your going to take alot better care of it than the previous keeper

    0-Large smile ......every time it's driven

  7. #7
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    Default

    Thanks everyone for your replies.

    DeeBe and Ginge7289 i dont currently have a polisher although it is on my list to get one, any recommendations?

    I did borrow one for the original t-cut session, but only from my dads neighbour.

    Sounds like I should get some clay and a polisher and set too again, then remember to seal it in and keep topping it up.

    Thanks again,

  8. #8
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    I'm getting a Das-6 Pro from CYC. New improved version has 850 motor so is very powerful. Being a DA though it will be relatively safe to use, just make sure you use a PTG before you go anywhere near your paint. Also, clay and de-contaminate the paint before touching the paint work with a machine polisher.

  9. #9
    Regular Member DeeBe's Avatar
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    Just as Lean says, make sure to use a depth gauge to know how much paint you have! Assume 40% is primer and the rest is paint. Last thing you want is strikethrough!

    I use a Silverline DA. I found that it's not so much the machine you use (as long as it has soft-start and variable speed) but the pads are very important. I use Hex-Logic pads. Blue and yellow. For a regular polish/glaze, Meguiars Soft Buff and Polishing pads are great with Meg's #80 & #83.

    EDIT - Make sure to get a DA (dual-action) polisher, as a rotary one can cause some serious damage if you're not careful!

  10. #10
    Regular Member Derek Mc's Avatar
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    It will need a cutting polish, and clay bar of a medium compound will also aid you in this removal of the oxidised paint layer.
    Patience and time to get it back the something as basic as the colour magic polish to put back some temporary pigmentation and then build up a deep shine with a product like Autoglym Super resin Polish then a glaze then a wax on top to seal it all down for winter.

    Red is both a curse and a blessing it fades but when it shines,,,, it dazzles!!!

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