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Thread: wiring up amps and subs HELP...

  1. #1
    Regular Member armoured farmer's Avatar
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    Question wiring up amps and subs HELP...

    Can one of you ICE guys please HELP.....

    I have bought 2x 10" Type "R" subs and 2x Alpine MRP-M350 Amps










    heres the side views of the Amps...












    Right ,im no ICE tech, SO id like some advice on wiring these AMPS (x2) to the 2 Subs....

    I have the long "power" lead with the big fuse in-line and these wires,,,






    What i need to know is where each wire goes, mainly how to join the amps to the subs and how to wire up the amps to the car........

    SO SORRY, But the Local ICE techs have a new manager and he want £220 just to wire up........NO BL**DY CHANCE...

    ALL help much appreciated...............Micky...

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    Regular Member Maddog1974's Avatar
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    Right you obviously need to run the thick red wire from the front battery with a fuse as close to the battery as possible to the amps providing its a decent size cable you should be able to piggy back from the + of one amp across to the other. You will need the RCA (phono) leads from head unit to amp but you will need some sort of splitter as the amps dont have an rca output so 1 rca lead split to 2 sets of ends which you can plug to both amps. Also you will need a remote power from the stereo some have a dedicated wire for this but if not you will need to attatch to the electric aerial output (again via a fuse if poss) then again piggy back this from one amp to other (only needs thin cable) As for the earth it can be better if you run this from the battery also but not always life threatening as long as you get a good earthing point in the boot. Then its just 2 speaker wires from each amp to each sub + to + and - to - along with a bit of playing with the gain settings!

    It may be worth getting a new amp wiring kit as those rca leads look a bit worn and the last thing you need is to fit them and find thaey are knackered! Usually pick one up for £15-20 from an audio shop. Will also give you another earth lead as the green/yellow one looks a bit naff.

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    Just a point of interest,check that the ariel power wire doesn't lose voltage when another source other than the tuner is selected.

  4. #4
    Regular Member armoured farmer's Avatar
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    many thanks mate,,,,& thanks to David for the fone call.......

    Cheers Tony ,will fone u 2moro mate....
    Don't loose any voltage when i select the AUX (dvd) mode.....cheers mate..
    Last edited by armoured farmer; 21st October 2006 at 19:24.

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    Regular Member Caterman's Avatar
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    PM'd you m8.

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    Regular Member Ben H's Avatar
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    I know a guy in Paington who'd be most likely be able to help if you drive to him.
    http://www.torbaycarstereo.co.uk/

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    Regular Member armoured farmer's Avatar
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    cheers Ben..

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    wiring in amps and subs is stupidly easy, even for somebody that hasn't done it.

    First of all, make sure that you have decent cables (as previously mentioned) - get yourself an 'amp wiring kit' and you'll have everything you need.
    the cheaper kits come with smaller power cables, and sometimes won't be good enough to drive the equipment. for that setup i would go with no less that 8AWG power cable - which is prob what you already have as that the most common.
    Then get yourself to your local Maplin Electronics store and find a splitter for your power cable - then you can run your power cable in to it, and get 2 feeds for your amps out of it (better than piggy backing) - if you wanted to be safe you could get a fused splitter.

    So here's the instructions.
    (all cables can be run down the passenger side of the car - when you lift up your trim you have white trunking - run the speaker cables and remote lead through that, but keep the power cable outside of it, otherwise you'll get interference)

    1) Run the power cable from battery to amp (fuse has to be no more than 30cm from the battery as a rule)

    2) Run you 2x RCA cables and you remote lead (Always thin and blue if you are buying a new kit) from head unit to amp. Because you have two amps, i would run 1 of them from the dedicated sub output, and 1 from the rear output of the head unit. The rear output still puts out the low frequencies the same as the sub output, and then the filtering of the higher frequencies will be done by the amp.
    The remote from the head unit is more than likely to be blue as well, so there should not be any probs there.

    3) Find a suitable earth point in the boot and hook up your earth cable (should be of good quality to ensure you get no feedback etc).

    4) connect all your cables up to your amps to the correct terminals and then hook up your speake cable to your subs (again, best quality you can or want to afford)

    5) once it's all powered up, turn the gain on the amps right down. so there should be no sound coming out of them. Then turn up the head unit to your 'normal' listening volume and leave it on. Then you can slowly turn up the gain on the amps until you get to the level of bass you want (obviously too much to distort).

    6) Ideally you would know the frequencies that the subs can operate within, which would make it easier to setup the Amp filter. i am presuming you don't know the subs specs in that much detail, so in this case you'll have to do it by ear. The amp thats running from the Sub output of the head unit will be easy as there are only low frequencies coming in. however, the one on the Rear output of the headunit will be putting through some mid range as well as bass. so you will have to adjust the amps filter so that you can no longer hear the mid range (voices of backing tracks) through the sub.

    Tip: Leave all the interior trim out, until you have tested the setup whilst driving.
    If you hear a whining noise through your speakers when you are driving, that increases when you rev. then your power cable is not very well shielded and is too close to your RCA cables. - The noise you can hear is actually the alternator winding up

    Sorry for the long post, but after all that you should have a top setup!

    If you have any problems then feel free to ask for more help... there's always a work around when it comes to ICE.

  9. #9
    Regular Member Caterman's Avatar
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    Good answer Baz

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    Thanks!

    Also, forgot to mention one thing...

    Always remember that the sub will sound differently inside the car than it will out.
    so when adjusting the gain levels and frequency... adjust then sit in the car with all doors/boot closed to see how it sounds.
    it's a bit of a pain in the rear but it'll be worth it.

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