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Thread: V6 CDTi buyer guide?

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    Regular Member bigdave1701's Avatar
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    Default V6 CDTi buyer guide?

    I've had a look throught the site but cant find anything specific so thought I'd stick my head above the parapet ..

    I'm traveling across country next week to look at a V6 CDTi but I don't know what to look for when I get there. The car in question is a 55 plate cdti v6 with 49k on the clock. I know it has a FSH, has just been MOT'd & had a new clutch & DMF very recently but apart from that I know nothing. Is it just the general Veccy things to watch out for (broken springs etc) or is there anything more specific to the 3.0 V6 that I should be aware of?

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Mk1 renault scenic... I know I know but it drives

    Trim : Basic

    Engine : 1.6 16v

    Year : 2003

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    Lack of power could point to scvs

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    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    What type of sale is it; private, trade, or dealership?
    If trade or dealership, what type of warranty is included?

    The service schedule should be 20K miles / 1 year, check the service book
    However it may be on ECO Flex, so with the key out of the ignition press the odometer reset and see if the miles to next service appears, if so compare that to the service book and see if it makes sense
    Also if it is on ECO Flex then it may be on the higher 30K miles / 2 years servicing

    New clutch and DMF
    Wow, that will last at least 1 year and be covered by repair warranty, is there a receipt?

    Engine wise, take it for a long test drive (switch off the radio once you have tested this works fully) and once warmed keep it on cruise control of about 50mph in 6th gear
    Watch the revs and make sure they are constant, any fluctuation suggests a blocked SCV (which will switch the cruise control off)

    When you have completed that, sit the car at idle, watch the rev needle closely
    Make sure it is perfectly stable and doesn't click, jump, or have a rhythmic wobble/vibration

    Everything else are normal Vectra issues
    Electrics and suspension
    Inspect the base of the rear springs, that is where they typically snap
    Inspect the tops of the rear shocks
    Inspect the front drop links, if they are new they are typically bright metal instead of dark originals
    At low speed listen for bangs and knocks from the rear (rear antiroll bar and bushes) and banging noises from the front (front drop links)

    Brake and tyre wear is high, so inspect these
    If the front tyres are new, then that speaks for itself
    At 50K miles it may still be on its original front and rear brake discs, so check for lips on the disc edge, if so they may need replacing soon
    The good point on these is the discs sets are relatively cheap, front pads fitted cost about £60, front pads and discs about £100 (and rear prices are slightly higher)

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    Ask if it's been for any factory recalls, what work was done, etc. Especially if they have owned the car from new. SCV's aren't the end of the world... but maybe the case if you get VX to do them. See about an aftermarket warranty - it's a low mileage vehicle, so this may be an affordable option, too - but check whether it's worth the paper it's written on.

    Suspect SCV are expensive to repair at VX, so a strong bargaining tool if you think they're dodgy. VX list 6 hours plus about £120 ish for the valves (IIRC). Member omega3 did them themself in 5, so a decent tame indie garage and it's not a killer.

    Give the car a decent workout throughout the rev range to see whether power delivery is smooth and consistent (as much as a turbodiesel can be: wait for it - wallop). I may be wrong, but it feels like the engine holds back in 1st and 2nd to keep the wheels from spinning, so a nice hill and some 3rd or 4th gives the engine something to do for a decent bit of time.

    Boot release, heater fan working on all speeds, cruise control not dropping out are all niggles that are easily fixed and may be used as a bargaining tool if not working. OOI, VX commented that my front discs were 'excessively lipped' at 85,000 miles. A little time with the car jacked up with the engine running in 1st gear and Mr Angle Grinder on the case of those 'excessive lips'.... New pads then and I'm now on 105,000 and the discs are fine. This is only an option if the disc has worn evenly (other than the lip) and there's plenty of metal left.

    Hope this helps!

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