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Thread: 1.9 cdti 120hp engine shuts off / too hot / sensor or thermostat (Belgium)

  1. #1
    Regular Member getmoney's Avatar
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    Question 1.9 cdti 120hp engine shuts off / too hot / sensor or thermostat (Belgium)

    Vectra C 1.9 cdti
    120Hp
    year : 2005

    Hi everyone
    I have to ask some help from you guys.

    This has driven me nuts the last 2 weeks.

    The Beginning.

    Drove the car as usual, parked it, got back after 5 mins and car didn't want to start.
    The engine "tries" to start, car shakes but nothing happens.
    Left the engine cool down for 10 mins and all was OK. I was surprised.

    This kept happening to me on many places, shops, parkings etc ...
    In 2 weeks it got Worse and Worse ... until Today It has made me gone crazy.

    While driving on the highway (I have done 350Km today) The engine stays COLD (has always been like this from the day I bought it) or MAX 75° Celsius and goes back down. The engine DOES NOT SHUT DOWN suddenly. ( not yet ... )

    While in the city, temperature goes up to 90° Celsius.
    And today, the Engine just SHUT down while I was driving. (happed 5 times)
    every time the engine was around 85 - 90 ° Celsius.

    Then I have to wait for it to cool down to 75 and you can start the engine.
    But sometimes (today) It didn't show the correct temperature ... engine was definitely hot hot hot but the temp. meter stayed low.

    What could cause the problem ?
    crank shaft sensor , thermostat , thermostat sensor , ...
    hope it will be cheap

    I have to change the time belt and the water pump over 5 days. ( 500 euro's costs )

    I want to try stuff before I have to ask the garage to check this ? temperature ? problem for me

    IF I ask the garage to read out the errors, will it MAYBE show any errors ... because I have tried to read any errors just the way it's been recommended on the how to section with break and accelerate pedal pressing, turning key to 2nd position etc ... but I don't get any blinking light or anything. Done it 100 times.




    thanks to this forum, I have done some How 2's. Just WONDERFUL !!!

    -yesterday I have changed my exhaust pipe (part where the pipe is in a sort of a net) , ( flexible pipe.) Old one was rusted and had holes in it. welded a new flexible between the pipes.
    -done the EGR
    -boost sensor
    -the door ticking

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    Totally different car, but a friend was having similar problems - the temperature sender was faulty and sending nonsense readings to the ECU - which then shut the engine down because it thought the engine was overheating. He then had to wait till the engine was practically cold before it would restart.

  3. #3
    Regular Member lee gsi's Avatar
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    Engine : 1.9 CDTi

    Year : 2005

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    Get the codes rear as it should have stored a code.

    My bet is its the crank sensor as I had my own car do the same thing.

    Aslong as I was driving it was fine........But as soon as I turned the car off heat soak set in and the sensor failed. .....I used to have to wait 30 minutes before it would start.

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    Good point, m8!

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    Regular Member getmoney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee gsi View Post
    Get the codes rear as it should have stored a code.

    My bet is its the crank sensor as I had my own car do the same thing.

    Aslong as I was driving it was fine........But as soon as I turned the car off heat soak set in and the sensor failed. .....I used to have to wait 30 minutes before it would start.
    Quote Originally Posted by hebblemarine View Post
    Totally different car, but a friend was having similar problems - the temperature sender was faulty and sending nonsense readings to the ECU - which then shut the engine down because it thought the engine was overheating. He then had to wait till the engine was practically cold before it would restart.
    Thanks for the replies guys.

    I will try to read out the codes Now, if it doesn't work again then I will bring the car tomorrow to Opel (vauxhall) to read it out. I will then ask all the codes and do a search for the codes in the proper section.

    Then I will try to fix it myself, by ordering the parts I need.
    I want to buy a OP-COM. I have the software and have used it couple of times to check my vec. Borrowed it of a friend.
    Any recommendations ?

    I have asked some friends who work in a garage, and they say it should be a sensor problem. Probably the temperature sensor or crank sensor.

  6. #6
    Regular Member getmoney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee gsi View Post
    Get the codes rear as it should have stored a code.

    My bet is its the crank sensor as I had my own car do the same thing.

    Aslong as I was driving it was fine........But as soon as I turned the car off heat soak set in and the sensor failed. .....I used to have to wait 30 minutes before it would start.
    I just went to the garage and have read it out.

    5 errors came up.

    P0110 => AIRFLOW
    P0335 => cam shaft ?
    P0400 => EGR
    P0380 => scr*w this
    P0150 => ?

    Oooh dear god, help.

    I am going to try clean out some sensors.

    Otherwise, I take my bike..... gotte get little fitter xD

    greetz

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    Regular Member getmoney's Avatar
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    just cleaned the Air intake , EGR and the ???( sensor in the middle, above the engine block. WHAT IS THE NAME ... ) sensor with breakcleaner.

    I discnnected the air intake sensor and drove with the car till the engine was hot. And again it shut down.

    So it is not the air flow sensor causing the probs.
    While driving car was in limp mode. max speed 40 -50 km/h

    Tomorrow testing some other sensors ...
    ANY TIPS, how to ??
    Will the engine get damaged if I drive the car without EGR sensor connected.?

    HOW TO test a sensor plz ... anyone ?

    greetz

    ps. sorry formy english xD

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    Try putting the codes into here http://www.eobd2.eu/DTCL.asp

    they should give you more information - rather than 'airflow' it will say 'Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit' so either the sensor is not working, or the circuit is not working.

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    Well, your 335 is crank shaft position sensor A circuit, the 400 is EGR flow: somehow, the amount of gas flow is not what the ECU is expecting. This may be due to a fault elsewhere... for example, if the inlet temperature is nonsense (110), then the pressure and volume flow (from the MAF and others) will be nonsense. When the EGR opens, this sets off a chain of more nonsense...

    I will have a look tomorrow morning and see if there is anything on TIS2000 to help you test the sensors... what car do you drive? Automatic, etc. as it can make a difference to the wiring???

  10. #10
    Regular Member lee gsi's Avatar
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    Year : 2005

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    P0400 will be the egr sticking.

    You need to take it off and then remove the solenoid and push the valve and clean it, turn the valve a bit and clean it and keep doing it till the edge of the valve is also clean and free moving,.

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