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Thread: CDTi 150 Swirl Bar

  1. #261
    Regular Member andy-j's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcabs View Post
    Swirl flaps are like tonsils; there was a purpose for them but not really that critical so you can live without them....

    You can buy a pierberg (oem) inlet manifold new for about £150 which includes the swirl flaps - all four are connected with rods between them. EGR is maybe £100ish from ECP and maybe slightly more for OEM. Seems a very steep quote at £1500; most likely a ‘we don’t want to do this just buy a new car FFS’ quotes.

    If you’re competent and have some basic sockets etc you can have this fixed yourself in a day. I went for the in between option of properly blanking the EGR, removing and blanking the swirl flaps and getting the EGR function mapped out to get rid of the dash light. It was my EGR that was jammed open so my car wouldn’t even start until I did something. Anyway all in cost was around £450 including blanking parts, remap and sealer etc.

    Is the car actually driving in limp mode or is your EML just on? Chances are there’s nothing wrong with your EGR if the car is starting/ running ok (imho)
    I never bought a new egr just stripped and cleaned. If cleaned thoroughly and solenoid cleaned and oiled it lasted longer than original from new. That's based on two Vectras with over 550,000 miles between them.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  2. #262
    VIP-Member Fastcabs's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 133500

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    Quote Originally Posted by andy-j View Post
    I never bought a new egr just stripped and cleaned. If cleaned thoroughly and solenoid cleaned and oiled it lasted longer than original from new. That's based on two Vectras with over 550,000 miles between them.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
    Your miles are keeping it a bit cleaner than mine was though. I killed mine with driving less than 1 mile to work and home again for the best part of a year before it eventually gave up and I must confess I never even bothered cleaning mine to try and fix it - I just blanked it and now it’s nothing more than a bracket for holding up the plastic engine cover.

  3. #263
    Regular Member andy-j's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcabs View Post
    Your miles are keeping it a bit cleaner than mine was though. I killed mine with driving less than 1 mile to work and home again for the best part of a year before it eventually gave up and I must confess I never even bothered cleaning mine to try and fix it - I just blanked it and now it’s nothing more than a bracket for holding up the plastic engine cover.
    I tried blanking one once and it didn't run aswell so put it back on.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  4. #264
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    Vehicle : vauxhall vectra

    Trim : cdti

    Engine : 1.9cdti

    Year : 06

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    Thanks for the info fastcabs. Yeah car rough starts and then is ok normal power, can put my foot down but when I decelerate thats when the limp mode kicks in and loss of power and EML on.
    Interestingly I put in a bluetooth scanner via my phone and I can delee the code whilst driving and normal power resumes until I decelerate again.
    I cant make my mind up between gluing the swirl flaps in the 10 oclock position or just trying a new pierberg manifold like u said. Thinking try the gluing and if no good then go for new manifold, gives me 2 options.
    I can do a bit given time with regard to changing the manifold myself but just concerned about doing the cambelt, might be beyond me.
    Also seen other people say that the actuator might need changing if u change the manifold?

  5. #265
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    Vehicle : vauxhall vectra

    Trim : cdti

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    Year : 06

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    Thanks for the info fastcabs. Yeah car rough starts and then is ok normal power, can put my foot down but when I decelerate thats when the limp mode kicks in and loss of power and EML on.
    Interestingly I put in a bluetooth scanner via my phone and I can delee the code whilst driving and normal power resumes until I decelerate again.
    I cant make my mind up between gluing the swirl flaps in the 10 oclock position or just trying a new pierberg manifold like u said. Thinking try the gluing and if no good then go for new manifold, gives me 2 options.
    I can do a bit given time with regard to changing the manifold myself but just concerned about doing the cambelt, might be beyond me.
    Also seen other people say that the actuator might need changing if u change the manifold?

  6. #266
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    Vehicle : vauxhall vectra

    Trim : cdti

    Engine : 1.9cdti

    Year : 06

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastcabs View Post
    Swirl flaps are like tonsils; there was a purpose for them but not really that critical so you can live without them....

    You can buy a pierberg (oem) inlet manifold new for about £150 which includes the swirl flaps - all four are connected with rods between them. EGR is maybe £100ish from ECP and maybe slightly more for OEM. Seems a very steep quote at £1500; most likely a ‘we don’t want to do this just buy a new car FFS’ quotes.

    If you’re competent and have some basic sockets etc you can have this fixed yourself in a day. I went for the in between option of properly blanking the EGR, removing and blanking the swirl flaps and getting the EGR function mapped out to get rid of the dash light. It was my EGR that was jammed open so my car wouldn’t even start until I did something. Anyway all in cost was around £450 including blanking parts, remap and sealer etc.

    Is the car actually driving in limp mode or is your EML just on? Chances are there’s nothing wrong with your EGR if the car is starting/ running ok (imho)
    Thanks for the info fastcabs. Yeah car rough starts and then is ok normal power, can put my foot down but when I decelerate thats when the limp mode kicks in and loss of power and EML on.
    Interestingly I put in a bluetooth scanner via my phone and I can delee the code whilst driving and normal power resumes until I decelerate again.
    I cant make my mind up between gluing the swirl flaps in the 10 oclock position or just trying a new pierberg manifold like u said. Thinking try the gluing and if no good then go for new manifold, gives me 2 options.
    I can do a bit given time with regard to changing the manifold myself but just concerned about doing the cambelt, might be beyond me.
    Also seen other people say that the actuator might need changing if u change the manifold?

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  8. #267
    VIP-Member Fastcabs's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 133500

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    Why don’t you try taking the cover off which will allow you access to EGR and let you have a good look at the swirl flap rod system.
    As https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/member.php?7981-andy-j (Andy J) has said you could try cleaning the EGR.

    Also, you don’t need to remove/change the cam belt for inlet manifold removal. If the swirl flap rod looks good maybe an EGR clean might solve your issue (or temporarily at least). The actuator thing that controls the swirl flap rod is underneath the inlet manifold so you could also check that it is attached at that end. If you want to save money or for best value for money, I’d seriously considering the blanking kits you can get from eBay. The car will drive fine even with EML on and you can get the EGR mapped out before your next MOT.

    Good luck and let us know what happens...

  9. #268
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    Trim : cdti

    Engine : 1.9cdti

    Year : 06

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    Thanks for the advice fastcabs.
    ok, so I already cleaned egr, was all gunked but working freely as it should. Actuator still attached. Photo is of number 1 swirl flap rod I assume from the left standing at front of car. Shows flap/rod at 1 oclock position and 2,3 & 4 all the same. Turned engine on and rod doesnt move while idling. Is it supposed to move while idling or does it only move when revved?
    Based on this does that mean all the swirl flaps are broken or just stuck?DSC_0314.jpg

  10. #269
    VIP-Member Fastcabs's Avatar
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    Year : 2007

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    https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showt...y-and-How-Much

    Have a look at link. Rod won’t move on idle but should when engine is revved. I don’t know anything about fault codes but if you’ve got a reader if your code is one those listed in the link it could confirm if your working toward correct diagnosis of the problem. If rod is moving then maybe you’ve got an air leak. Check hose connections, MAF sensor and also intake hoses for signs of damage or listen out for strange ‘air’ noises when the car is revved.

  11. #270
    Midlands - Vxr Owning Dick Dog_Book's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : VXR

    Engine : Z28NEH

    Year : 07

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    Quote Originally Posted by scrumpy71 View Post
    Thanks for the advice fastcabs.
    ok, so I already cleaned egr, was all gunked but working freely as it should. Actuator still attached. Photo is of number 1 swirl flap rod I assume from the left standing at front of car. Shows flap/rod at 1 oclock position and 2,3 & 4 all the same. Turned engine on and rod doesnt move while idling. Is it supposed to move while idling or does it only move when revved?
    Based on this does that mean all the swirl flaps are broken or just stuck?DSC_0314.jpg
    Why don't you have a look in the troubleshooting section where this was all spoken about many times, hopefully the old pictures will still be there. Thats how i learned about the cdti when i had one i got all the info from there and sorted it all myself.
    Vectra VXR estate 2007 Sapphire Black
    Teapot Tuned 255/300
    Eibachs B8's, fully loaded factory options

    Tech2 & MDI diagnostics + SPS

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