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Thread: Auto Gearbox Oil Change

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    Default Auto Gearbox Oil Change

    I have read many mixed views on here but is it worth changing the auto gearbox oil?

    Some say don't if there isn't a problem and some people say change it anyway?

    I have a Vectra 2.2 auto the box is fairly good although sometimes judders when down changing. Any advice appreciated.

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    If you want your autobox to last the lifetime of the car then change it (all of it and not just the 3.5 litres or so from the drain bolt). If you you want problems and he huge expense of replacing it then don't.
    Old, burnt fluid is the biggest killer of autoboxes!

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    At what milage or age would be recommended? My car has done 10,000 miles and is 2 years old, I think it's too new to worry, what would you recommend? 3 years or 36,000 miles ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tmd View Post
    At what milage or age would be recommended? My car has done 10,000 miles and is 2 years old, I think it's too new to worry, what would you recommend? 3 years or 36,000 miles ?
    If you don't have an aftemarket cooler fitted and are using the standard radiator to cool the fluid, I would do a full flush/change every 2 years - this will ensure you have a trouble free box for the life of the car!

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    Vehicle : Vauxhall Astra-J

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 2.0 CDTi

    Year : 2013

    Default

    My 2.2 auto has done 64,000 miles. Going in for a service tomorrow and yet again they said if the autobox isn't causing any problems then leave well alone. Unusual for them to turn down work, but I've asked them for the last 3 yrs and always get the same answer.

    It isn't causing any problems, btw. Changes up and down smoothly.

    IIRC, one of the reasons they gave for leaving well alone unless there are problems is that you can induce dirt or other contaminants into the autobox when changing the oil.

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    I changed the auto box oil in my old car a Ford Scorpio and it caused problems. It took ages for it to change into gear 3 and therefore it revved a lot this happened after i changed the oil that's why im reluctant to do it in my Vectra.

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    If I opt for a transmission fluid change can anyone recommend a place to get it done? I live Essex/London area.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
    My 2.2 auto has done 64,000 miles. Going in for a service tomorrow and yet again they said if the autobox isn't causing any problems then leave well alone. Unusual for them to turn down work, but I've asked them for the last 3 yrs and always get the same answer.

    It isn't causing any problems, btw. Changes up and down smoothly.

    IIRC, one of the reasons they gave for leaving well alone unless there are problems is that you can induce dirt or other contaminants into the autobox when changing the oil.
    It's your choice of course, but Auto fluid degrades very quickly at high temperatures - the stock cooler on the vectra auto transmissions is very poor at cooling the fluid.
    If you do some research / speak to an autobox specialist (which any Vauxhall dealer is most defintley not), they will tell you that the the biggest killer of autoboxes is not having the fluid changed regularly, and they will always recommend that you change (all of) it at regular intervals.

    Also there is as much chance of getting contaminants in the fluid, as there is when you change engine oil - i.e you do it with some degree of care so that the fresh fluid / oil does not get contamanated.
    Last edited by dae36; 20th June 2011 at 20:41.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket999 View Post
    If I opt for a transmission fluid change can anyone recommend a place to get it done? I live Essex/London area.
    Seriously, if you want it done properly, and don't feel confident to do it yourself (it is a relativley straight forward job to do at home) then take it to an autobox specialist for a full fluid flush.

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    Vehicle : Vectra 1.9 cdti 16v (150)

    Trim : elite


    Year : 2007

    Default

    I am going to do an oil change on an AF40 box later this week.
    For the filler "plug" on the top of the transmission housing looks like a T55 torx bit is required. What are the exact size tools/type are required to remove the "checking plug" and "drain plug"? Looks like you unscrew the smaller checking plug first, followed by the drain plug. (Haynes 7B*3 refers)

    Anyone know?

    regards

    Neil

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