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Regular Member
Brake pipe replacement
Hi
I know there are alot of threads on this subject but I have some further questions on brake pipe replacement.
Car failed MOT today on brake pipes, front and front to rear.
I think I can replace them myself but what I arent sure of is do the brake pipes simply leave the ABS control module and go straight to each wheel without going through any pressure equalising valves or anything else.
I have looked on TIS and cant find anything showing the full brake pipe layout.
Thanks Paul
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Regular Member
mine failed a few years back for having greased brake pipes as he claimed he couldnt inspect them.
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I am almost certain they just go to the cylinders after leaving the ABS unit as i had mine done last year and garage showed me the job they had done as they know Im on this site and i could not see any other connections .....
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Originally Posted by
RobW
An old school mechanic told me once that if you clart the brake lines in grease, they cannot inspect them and will usually just pass it. Not allowed to wipe the lines.
I know it is not a suitable 'fix' if they are corroded but quite a handy hint if it is true.
No idea on original question, sorry.
Not ideal if your brakes do fail though .... these checks are for road safety and personnel safety ....not a good idea to take chances
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They pipes all go directly to the rubber flexi pipes in each wheel arch, however........the nearside rear goes over the fuel tank and is a complete pain to do
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Regular Member
brake pipe replacement
thanks for all your replies, will do pipes at the weekend.
paul
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2nd February 2017, 05:24
#8
Regular Member
Hi,
The pipes must be able to be visually inspected for the MOT test! End of story, if they cannot be inspected because they were hidden by grease or underseal the test person can lawfully request that they are cleaned off and then the car re-presented or worst case a fail certificate will be issued.
The easiest method of repair is to inspect the brake lines and cut out the corroded sections then graft in new pipe (Copper or Kunifer because they do not corrode and are easily shaped) using a jointing kit which is readily available from Ebay. Some are made so they can be be used for insitu on car use, the 'plier' type, a bit more expensive though being the easiest ones. Just make sure that you buy the correct tool (and pipe etc) of either imperial or metric.
The sections of pipe which are in the engine compartment or above the fuel tank usually do not corrode because they are protected by their locations. I have used this method many, many times and the cars I have applied this repair to all then passed the test. Typical cost of a repair kit including the pipe and ends is around £28.00.
Hope that helps.
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2nd February 2017, 08:54
#9
If all brake pipes must be visible to the MOT inspector, then every single vectra-c and signum should have failed every MOT test, as the pipe which runs over the tank cannot be inspected, so I can't really agree with your first statement.
In my experience, the section above the tank is usually the first to corrode to the point of leakage. I've had two brake failure's - one on a vectra and one on a signum. In both cases the pipe ruptured where it runs above the fuel tank.Thankfully in both cases I noticed the pedal creep to the floor whilst moving in slow traffic and could still stop by pumping the pedal. Had this happened at higher speed the consequences could have been very bad. I'm not sure why they corrode here - it must be something to do with condensation caused by temperature variations and the thermal mass of the liquid volume in the fuel tank.
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2nd February 2017, 14:50
#10
Originally Posted by
Teapot
Had this happened at higher speed the consequences could have been very bad.
Nonsense. As long as you could keep going you'd be fine.
I had a front brake failure on a motorbike once whilst coming off the M1. Slowing from 70 by hammering down through the gearbox and prodding the useless rear drum brake was interesting.
Didn't die though.
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