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Thread: Help - High idle (1000 rpm) and high map reading

  1. #1
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    Default Help - High idle (1000 rpm) and high map reading

    Help

    A bit of back ground.
    1.9 cdti , 34 000 ish miles. ( hatchback )
    Last service at 28 000 ish.

    Tonight got in the car started it up and got a brake light warning, nothing to worry about. turned the car off turned it back on and the warning went ( have had this before thought no more of it).

    Drive to destination and car seems to be running a little rich, still not really worried.

    Get back in the car, start car up and its running rich idle is 1000 rpm once warm but about 800 when first started. pull upto a few junctions / traffic lights and its still idleing high.

    Pull out the ms509 code reader, turn car off and back on, start car up and its idleing fine 800 ish, drive home with code reader hooked up and starts runing rich again, and turbo seems to be over boosting / spinning more than normal.
    Pull up at home, idle is 1000 rpm, turn engine off and back one, hooked up the code reader again, Map sensor is giving 185 G reading ( I think this is a little high for idle ).

    I erased codes even though there were none stored, started car up map reading was 100 g rpm 850 / 852 , cant see anything apparent from the data I recorded, no dash lights. Its a little late to go out messing about now but anyone want to give me some idea`s on what to look for in the morning ?

    Any suggestions welcome.

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    Mine, when I drive it and put the clutch down, the rev counter drops and hovers over the 1,000rpm mark. Tbh I think it is either a broken injector(s), maybe excessive oil sweat in the intake tract or there are jammed turbo vanes. If there is a problem that is.

    The turbo shouldn't really be spinning on idle as it usually causes the engine to run rough or stall.

    I'm not 100% but from what I have read on this site, I think the MAF reading should be ~50g/hr - but don't hold me to that m8.

    Gazza4

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    Regular Member Celes's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Signum

    Trim : Sport

    Engine : 3.0 CDTI

    Year : 12/03

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gazza4 View Post
    I'm not 100% but from what I have read on this site, I think the MAF reading should be ~50g/hr - but don't hold me to that m8.

    Gazza4
    Is that for the 1.9 150 only mate?

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    Quote Originally Posted by Celes View Post
    Is that for the 1.9 150 only mate?
    yeah bud, as yours has an extra 2 pots I would imagine - assuming it has the same volumetric efficency as the 1.9 16V - yours may be around 75-ish. Like I said I only believe I read that figure from here so I don't actually know if it is correct.

    Gazza4

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    Regular Member Celes's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Signum

    Trim : Sport

    Engine : 3.0 CDTI

    Year : 12/03

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gazza4 View Post
    yeah bud, as yours has an extra 2 pots I would imagine - assuming it has the same volumetric efficency as the 1.9 16V - yours may be around 75-ish. Like I said I only believe I read that figure from here so I don't actually know if it is correct.

    Gazza4
    I might check the DTi tomorrow as that's playing up for a change, not the common rail junk this time

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    Regular Member Teapot's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Design+

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 101000

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    It could be that the boost control valve is stuck - that would cause the symptoms that you describe.

    It would be best not to drive it until fixed, as you may get excessive boost pressure and damage something.

    If you know somebody with an opcom - there is a test for this under 'output tests'. The revs should rise to about 1000-1100 with it on, and drop to about 800 with it off.

    Try removing the vacuum pipe that goes to the actuator on the turbo. If the revs drop then it is the control solenoid that is broken. If it stays high, then the actuator on the turbo is stuck or damaged.

    Hope this helps!

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    Regular Member winnie2457's Avatar
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    To check the actuator on the turbo undo the vacuum pipe going from the vacuum control box to the turbo undonit at vacuum control end then suck in the tube you will hear te vanes in the turbo move and reach the max stop release the vacuum pressure from you mouth and you will hear the vanes and actuator return to idle/no load position and hear t hit the stop if you hear nothing then it's either a faulty vacuum capsule on the turbo or the vanes are stuck

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    Good news, all back up and running and the fix ..................

    well got in the car ths morning had to take it for a short drive first thing then the day was set ocket set at the door ready for getting back .....

    Battery died once I got to where i was going, no problem starting but got a odd series of bulb failure mesages when I started it, drove ok but rich again got to destination and thats as far as she went, £100 lighter new battery and all is good

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    Regular Member Teapot's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Design+

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 101000

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    Ah yes, that makes sense. I remember now when the alternator had failed on my signum that when the battery was on its last legs the ECU raised the idle speed to about 1100rpm - presumably in a vain attempt to charge the battery.

    Because you'd also mentioned the turbo being noisier, I'd assumed it was the other problem.

    Glad it was a cheap and easy fix!

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    It had me confused if it hadnt failed when it did I would not have thought battery and would have been ankle deap in bits and pieces of vectra :-)

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