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Thread: GSI Oil filter housing

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    Unhappy GSI Oil filter housing

    I am in the process of getting the car serviced, only for the mechanic to inform me that the oil filter housing is spinning with the cover and he is bothered that it will snap off and leave threads in the block.

    Have any of you guys experienced that problem or heard of this one before?

    I think this could get pricey.

    02 GSI 70k on the clock.

    Whats really worrying is that it was serviced 12 months ago, I cant see it getting that bad since then, so has the filter been changed at all in the last few services?... Who knows..

    Jay

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    Quote Originally Posted by sickboyjay View Post
    I am in the process of getting the car serviced, only for the mechanic to inform me that the oil filter housing is spinning with the cover and he is bothered that it will snap off and leave threads in the block.

    Have any of you guys experienced that problem or heard of this one before?

    I think this could get pricey.

    02 GSI 70k on the clock.

    Whats really worrying is that it was serviced 12 months ago, I cant see it getting that bad since then, so has the filter been changed at all in the last few services?... Who knows..

    Jay
    Yes, I had the exact same problem. It’s caused by tightening the housing cap to a higher torque than the bolt that holds the filter housing to the cylinder block.
    I can also confirm that if the housing is spinning the lugs (not the thread - this will be fine) on the bottom do definitely shear off (the metal is very soft compared to the block). I know this because when I eventually got mine off the housing was full of shards (some quite big).
    You therefore need to get the housing off before using the car again if possible. Fortunately I didn’t use my car with this issue, so all the broken shards were still in the housing.
    I did this by using an oil filter strap wrench on the actual housing. Going in from under the car you need to get the filter strap around the housing as tight as you can to stop it spinning, and then get an assistant to undo the cap nut from the top. It was a real pain but the cap eventually came off with a lot of persistence.
    Once off, you need to remove the housing from the cylinder block to ensure you can get all the shards removed. You need a torx bit for this. It’s either a T45 or T50 - I can’t remember exactly which one.
    I also bought a new filter housing to replace the old one (this comes with a new seal for the cylinder block) You could use the old one if you manage to get it off using this method but the lugs at the bottom will be damaged and you will be using the old seal.
    If you can’t get it off using this method the only other methods are (or at least what I was going to do)
    1. to use an angle grinder to get the cap off (obviously, you will definitely need to replace with a brand new housing and filter cap) OR
    2. drill a whole into the housing and wedge a screwdriver in to hold it, while the cap is screwed off (you will need a new housing for definite using this method)
    And remember when all fixed, only tighten the housing cap to 15nm – this is plenty for an oil tight seal! Oh and change the oil again after a short while just to be safe!
    HTH
    Darran
    Last edited by dae36; 23rd March 2011 at 12:15.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dae36 View Post
    Yes, I had the exact same problem. Itís caused by tightening the housing cap to a higher torque than the bolt that holds the filter housing to the cylinder block.
    I can also confirm that if the housing is spinning the lugs (not the thread - this will be fine) on the bottom do definitely shear off (the metal is very soft compared to the block). I know this because when I eventually got mine off the housing was full of shards (some quite big).
    You therefore need to get the housing off before using the car again if possible. Fortunately I didnít use my car with this issue, so all the broken shards were still in the housing.
    I did this by using an oil filter strap wrench on the actual housing. Going in from under the car you need to get the filter strap around the housing as tight as you can to stop it spinning, and then get an assistant to undo the cap nut from the top. It was a real pain but the cap eventually came off with a lot of persistence.
    Once off, you need to remove the housing from the cylinder block to ensure you can get all the shards removed. You need a torx bit for this. Itís either a T45 or T50 - I canít remember exactly which one.
    I also bought a new filter housing to replace the old one (this comes with a new seal for the cylinder block) You could use the old one if you manage to get it off using this method but the lugs at the bottom will be damaged and you will be using the old seal.
    If you canít get it off using this method the only other methods are (or at least what I was going to do)
    1. to use an angle grinder to get the cap off (obviously, you will definitely need to replace with a brand new housing and filter cap) OR
    2. drill a whole into the housing and wedge a screwdriver in to hold it, while the cap is screwed off (you will need a new housing for definite using this method)
    And remember when all fixed, only tighten the housing cap to 15nm Ė this is plenty for an oil tight seal! Oh and change the oil again after a short while just to be safe!
    HTH
    Darran
    Cheers matey, thats great advice and I am glad I am not alone..

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