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Thread: Changed clutch and flywheel yesterday

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Changed clutch and flywheel yesterday

    Just thought I would share my experience of trying to fit the flywheel and clutch myself. Started at 8.30am and worked right through with the help of a mate. Didn't read the manual, just went by the basic instructions from a member, which was great. Some of the bits to remove were very awkward. The starter motor was a ******. We lowered the subframe like everyone said, but still could not get the gearbox out. So decided to pull it as far away from the engine as poss, which left enough space to fit the flywheel/clutch and slave cylinder. One annoying thing was, I brought a new set of bolts from Vauxhall, only to find I needed to buy a set of special torque tools to fit them.
    But the old ones on my engine were a different type of torque bolt, which I didn't have the right size.
    All went back together ok, and works a treat. No noise on tickover now and easier to change gear. Didn't finish until 7pm!
    The only issue at the end was I got the spanner light come up. Now gone out and no codes stored.
    Don't know how you could do this on your own, definitely needed help.
    Cost me £325 for a Luk clutch and slave cylinder and Sachs flywheel. And a further £24 for new bolts for the flywheel.
    Definitely worth the effort for the cost saving, but I do ache abit today.

  2. #2
    Regular Member winnie2457's Avatar
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    Did you do it on a drive on axle stands or on a ramp or in a pit just wondered that's all and any advice for ppl wanton to do it on there drive

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    Did it on the drive with axle stands. The only issues were the usual lack of space, and i couldnt get the gearbox out like everyone else explained you could. Must have been doing something wrong.
    Everything else was ok. If you have the time and are reasonably ok with spanners, give it a go. Looks like it saved me around £300, which in todays climate is all good.

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    Regular Member winnie2457's Avatar
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    Was it difficult getting the bolts out on the gearbox to engine bolts

    And did you have to remove subframe completely and was the gearbox heavy how did you support it once the last bolt was out

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    The bolts came out ok but some were in awkward places. Had to drop the subframe down completely on the passenger side but only loosened them on the drivers side. You can remove all the bolts and the gearbox will remain fixed to the engine as the gearbox main shaft goes into the clutch and holds it in place. Takes a bit of wrestling to pull it off the engine. And it is very heavy. Wont fall completely out to the ground as the subframe is in the way.
    I dropped the subframe down about 6-8inches on the passenger side to try and get it through the gap created in the wheel arch. But gave up and just rested it as far away from engine as possible. This left enough gap to get in and remove the old clutch, flywheel and release bearing/slave cylinder. Wish I had decided to do this earlier as spent quite a lot of time trying to wrestle it out of the gap.

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    Regular Member winnie2457's Avatar
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    I see cool sounds like an ok job then

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    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    Just a few Q's bud, I haven't really studied the underside sub-frame as such although I've done loads of cdti jobs, Is it possible to drop the sub frame completely when doing this job ?, It would not bother me about the above pending g/box dropping as it would have support (see workshop in the 'how 2 change a cdti inlet manifold', Just thinking drop sub frame support box move back hold or drop whilst clutch is changed, how did you find the drive shaft removal/removals. (I do cdti 150 inlet manifolds & cambelts so this would be another stringto the bow so to speak), PS; just done some golf front anti roll bar bushes so know where your coming from with the aching joints .

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    Not sure if you can completely drop the subframe. It may give you more problems. All the posts I read about doing it said not to undo the drivers side completely. I dropped the passenger side down quite a distance. When you put it back make sure you keep an eye on the radiator, as this slots back into a rubber gromet which is attached to the subframe. I didn't check and did all the bolts up to find the rad was being pushed up into the front panel.
    The drive shafts came out ok. Had to remove the bottom swivel joint and drop link from the roll bar, and track rod end so it could be pulled out of the way on the passenger side. You also have to completely loosen the steering rack as its attached to the subframe.
    I've never tackled something quite as involved as this before. I have done the cambelt and various other small tasks, but this was the most involved.
    But definitely do-able for someone who knows there way around a car mechanicals.

  9. #9
    Regular Member Derek Mc's Avatar
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    What a fantastic and inspiring write up, the one factor of not having to completely remove the box to access clutch flywheel and slave is very worthy of attention as you say you might well have had a shorter day ha you known that from the off.

    Given that this was done on the drive and on axle-stands is another massive plus as I know it has been done we have another member who did the job and he went as far as dropping the subframe off completely to do this so your method is great!

    Thanks for the write up, I am sure it will be appreciated by many.

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    Regular Member robengland9's Avatar
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    I'm not having any clutch problems at the moment....but car has high miliage so like to be prepared if it goes....not a mechanic but recently changed alternator and I know its a much easier job but had no problems with that. With changing the clutch....do you need a special tool to align clutch plate or does it self align...can anyone please advise?

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