Can I have some more info on where I find out if my car has a DPF?
Thanks
Can I have some more info on where I find out if my car has a DPF?
Thanks
is it auto an estate or a signum lol
None of the above! Do Vectra manual hatchbacks not have it then?!! That'll be a bonus if they don't!
Check on the B pillar, there's a label (passenger side on LHD opel). There is a number in rectangle outline if it's 0.5 than the car has DPF, if it's 1.2 it doesn't. Alternatively you can try http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/vindecode/, it lists DPF when I try it on my car as "USED WITH EXHAUST SYSTEM PARTICLE FILTER"
dpf.jpg
I've got a little issue if any one can advise me please ? Signum deisel 120 mapped out the dpf professionally but the glow plug light flashes can this be turned off in any after market software ie op comm ?
I don't know if I'm posting in the correct place with this but felt I should do it here.
2009, 1.9 CDTi (150) Hatch
My problem started as a simple missfire (ok, diesels don't miss fire persay, just run roughly) at around 2.5/3K RPM in 6th (I know, I drive her hard and was on a private road,, ahem). The miss fire then started coming down the gears, 5th and 4th fell foul within a very short space of time, then down into third to the point I thought I was going to have to pull off the road and call out the recovery. The problem started and went to 3rd in a month or two.
So, after much deliberating, searching on here and in the Saab, Fiat and Alfa sites (all running, what I believe is a Fiat lump) decided to replace the connector for injector 3. Like I said this is a 2009 so must be one of the last so I was blinkered by the thought that the conectors were blue and should be perfectly fine. Anyways, replacing the connector on injector 3 made no difference. I decided, rather than forking out for another 3 repair kits (skinflint I know) I would try a bit of emorry board on the remaining injector connectors (pins on the injectors) and what do you know, this made a marked difference. Whilst my problem was not ressolved, I now had a car that wasn't limping along like some demented Hunch back shouting Ezmarrelda (no offence to those who are called Ezmarrelda).
I decided that I would buy another repair kit and as each repair kit comes with 1x new connector and 4x cables of the same thickness or thicker cable to the original, thought I could actualy make two repair kits do all four plugs. I straightened out a paper clip and then bent it in half. My new tool for removing the original cabling completely out of the connector housing. You need one end of the paper clip down one hole and the other end down the other hole, both pushed firmly home at the same time, to remove offending cable from the connector housing.
So, indeed, two kits repair/replaced all four injector connectors and with the new wiring all carefully soldered, heat shrinked and put back together I thought my job was done... And it was, to a certain extent. Now the car was running without missing(running roughly) untill I got her back into 5th and 6th gears. Again there was a hesitency and a missfire or two and would she get beyond the 3/3.5RPM, nah, struggled. Damn, what next???
My service interval counter had been flashing up on the dash for a couple of months and whilst I had given her an oil and filter change, I hadn't reset the interval timer. Now, I must admit, I only got to testing her on the way home today but, I reset the interval timer and she is back to normal.
So my question 1 is.... Does the interval timer limit the car to any extent or am I going to find that the problem is still there??
Assuming the answer to question one is no, the problem is still there, what do I look at next? The car does not have a DPF as per Astradrivers post above.
If anyone would like to see close up pics on how to extract the wire connection from it's housing please let me know and I will post on here. I may even do my first Youtube vid on it
Well, that's three runs now and touch wood all seems well.. I did forget to mention I had blanked off the EGR Valve (exhaust side) with a full blanking plate and if memory serves me right, I did that after I reset the service interval counter so at this point in time am unsure if the reset helped or the blanking off of the EGR valve helped or both, with the missfire(rough running) at high speed.
Maybe one of the techies can tell us if the service interval timer, if left long enough, runs some sort of limiter..
As far as I know, blanking off the EGR valve only helps with the low rev range performance and not the high end.
On that note as well. To date, I have had no engine management light or spanner come on complaining about the EGR Valve being blanked off NOR have I had it switched of in the ECU. So my conclusion is, blanking off at the exhaust side is the place to do it, £3 for a blanking plate from Ebay, job done.
Wierd your EML has not come on with EGR blanked, mine did occassionally with just a restrictor plate fitted to the exhaust side of the EGR valve. Since then had it remapped and total EGR blanked. Never had any issues with the EGR on mine but it did falter slightly as you accelerated through about 1700rpm. That no longer happens (120 8v).
Regarding the DPF, my car is an estate and has the 0.5 marking on the door pillar, so was built with a DPF, I have never seen the flashing glowplug symbol or noticed it doing a regeneration. behind the engine there is an empty piece of sleeving, would this originally have carried a fuel feed to the DPF? The car had 110,000 miles on it when I got it, I suspect a lot of the troublesome items have already been addressed. DMF and timing belt were done at 95,000...
Did main dealers ever remove DPF stuff due to problems?
I have a problem with my '04 Vectra estate 1.9cdti. I can drive for about 1/4 to 1/2 mile normally, then the engine will lose power (without overheating) I slow down, I have to pull over & switch off the engine for a few minutes before I can pull away again for another 1/4 to 1/2 mile when the problem re-occurs, thus it takes me about 2 - 3 hours to drive the 14 miles home from work or to work from home. When I pull over, before I switch the engine off I press down on the accelerator pedal but the revs don't go above about 2100 rpm, when I restart the car after it being switched off for several minutes normal rev range is temporarily restored. I plugged a code reader into the ODB plug & got an error code of P1125, I googled that code & found that it related to the throttle body/EGR valve sub-system, which I've stripped down & cleaned thoroughly, I also checked the EGR actuating solenoid & found it was OK, but I'm still getting the same problem - after the engine has been running for a minute or two it still refuses to go above 2100 rpm. Any advice would be most welcome.
OK, guess what? I've cracked it, thanks to an inspired use of the search function . I searched the forum for P1125 error code & got a shed load of info from previous posts. So I took the throttle body back off the engine, opened the throttle actuator black box, lo & behold - there was some nasty looking oil in there & when I checked the soldered joints, they looked a bit iffy. Five minutes of cleaning & soldering, ten minutes to re-fit to the engine, start 'er up & leave running while I had a cuppa & a fag & BINGO - can rev the full range, took 'er for a test drive & she's running as sweet as a nut. Thanks to everyone who posted about this in the other threads, your advice is very much appreciated.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks