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Thread: Rear brake Caliper

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    Default Rear brake Caliper

    Hi people new here, A friend is looking for me to change his rear brakes on his vectra C 2.2 sri.

    He also needs his off side caliper replaced as its seized. Is there any special tools or precautions to be taken when doing the caliper. any special bleeding procedures?

    Any info is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Stuart

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    Regular Member carpet's Avatar
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    A piston windback tool will be a great help as the rear pistons wind back not just push back as on the front calipers. A long torque bar will also help as the caliper retaining bolts are a "bit" tight. VX say replace the caliper bolts but I just use a drop of "loctight" and replace the old ones, they are so tight that they will not drop out. Other than that use all the normal proccedures when dealing with brakes, be clean etc.

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    Regular Member mark_647's Avatar
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    The windback calliper adapter is an odd size on the Vectra. The common ones that are stocked on the shelf in most places do not fit. Some order the correct one online, however I filed the pins down on the one I got from Halfords, worked fine. Maybe an option if waiting for delivery is a problem.

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    Regular Member carpet's Avatar
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    I think the pin centres are 21mm, I also had to grind my ones down to fit.

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    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : SRi


    Engine : Z22SE (2.2 Petrol)

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by carpet View Post
    A long torque bar will also help as the caliper retaining bolts are a "bit" tight. VX say replace the caliper bolts but I just use a drop of "loctight" and replace the old ones, they are so tight that they will not drop out.
    You dont have to move that to take the calliper off mate, just undo both slider bolts, the caliper bracket stays in situe. You only have to remove that if you change discs.

    If your fitting a new or good used caliper then a set of long nose pliers will be fine as you'll be winding it back on the bench and by its nature of being new/newer if will be less tight. Wind it all the way back is so less bleeding is needed when fitting.

    Once its fitted pump the handbrake lever (on the caliper) to push the pads back up, then again pump the actual handbrake several times.

    Its then just a case of bleeding that part of the circuit.

    I did mine the other week with a used item from ebay. Its a very easy and quick job to do.

    You'll need a 7mm allen drive to take the slider bolts out and a rewind tool or pin noes pliers to wind the piston back in.

    Other than that you only need some mole grips to pull out the outer handbrake cable from the caliper casting.


    HTH

    Steve

    PS, not forgetting the spanner for the bleed nipple, sorry off the top of my head I cant remember the size.
    Last edited by rushy; 16th February 2011 at 18:14.

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    Default

    Thanks for all that guys, some good info there. will double check the pin centres on the new caliper and make a wind back tool at work.

    I was just unsure of the bleeding procedure as i had read on the internet not to bleed using conventional methods but a pressure bleeder to protect the ABS.

    He had been quoted £220 for the caliper at a garage and dingbro quoted me £75 +VAT so hes making a saving.

    Got all the mentioned tools so hopefully everthing should be ok.


  7. #7
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Engine : Z22SE (2.2 Petrol)

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 137000

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    I used a pressure bleeding kit, but you might need to put some electrical or plumbers tape round the thread of the reservoir as the one that came with my kit was just a tiny bit too big, but the tape did the trick.

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