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Thread: 2.2dti Turbo Actuator Rod adjustment?

  1. #1
    Regular Member Innes's Avatar
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    Default 2.2dti Turbo Actuator Rod adjustment?

    I've had the Limp-Home Mode issue since I owned the car. I replaced the vacuum hoses awhile back and even replaced a suspect Vacuum solenoid. All of which improved the LHM issue. It now only ever seems to do it when the revs are low in 5th gear and I press the acclerator pedal whilst going up a hill. Basically when the engine is under strain ab it. To bypass this I have just made sure I drop it a gear and accelerate up the hill. HOWEVER my wife is now back off maternity leave and is back driving the car. She doesnt like using the acclerator pedal much and she keeps putting it into LHM.

    A member on here suggested that it may be the Turbo Actuator Rod needing adjustment. I've had a peek at it (see below pics) and it looks like the nut has either been adjusted in the past or the has moved. Has anyone adjusted their Turbo Actuator Rod before? How much of adjustment does it need and which way do I need to go with it? I'm guessing move it to left where the white area is but how do I tighten the arm up behind it?




  2. #2
    Ex Vec-C Admin Deztroyer's Avatar
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    hi mate - i cant see the photos as there blocked by works web systems
    but i adjusted the actuator on my 2.0T when i had an issue ...

    there should be a little circlip on the end of the arm at the turbo that needs to be popped off - then you wind the end of the arm out/in to adjust (4 full turns on mine prevented the LHM) then you refit the arm and circlip and adjust the nut back upto the arm end to prevent any movement

    might be worth while checking the recirc cump valve as this was the problem on mine split diaphram causing loss of boost at higher revs (same as yours)

    HTH regards

    Dez

    0-Large smile ......every time it's driven

  3. #3
    Regular Member Innes's Avatar
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    Thanks dez, Is a circlip like a half circle clip that sits on the end of the rocker arm? I'm hoping its just the arm that needs adjusting and not a new diaphram as they quite expensive arent they? My issue was at low revs not high revs but thats probably a diesel/petrol thing. Can you have a look at the photos when you get home and let me know if its similar to what you have described? Do I need to tighten up to the white/cleaner area on the arm i.e. make the arm shorter so it'll open sooner?

  4. #4
    Ex-Staff Full Member John LE's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Facelift Insignia/Corsa D

    Trim : LE/VXR

    Engine : 2.0 cdti/1.6 Turbo

    Year : 13/07

    Default

    No you need to make the arm longer mate, the white stuff is a kind of thread lock. remove the circlip and then remove the actuator.

    Note that the outer bit of of the adjuster just spins, it's the bit in the middle that you turn (the rough bit)

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    Regular Member Innes's Avatar
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    How many turns do think I should give it?

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    Ex-Staff Full Member John LE's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Facelift Insignia/Corsa D

    Trim : LE/VXR

    Engine : 2.0 cdti/1.6 Turbo

    Year : 13/07

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    Just give it the one full turn to begin with mate, You are slightly reducing the boost so if anything all you'll get will be a touch of black smoke if you go too far

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    Regular Member peadar's Avatar
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    Vehicle : ELITE

    Trim : FULL LEATHER

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150 BHP

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 87,000

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    so if you shorten it this will bring the boost on sooner

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    Regular Member benny's Avatar
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    what codes you get ? .. the 2.2's had a ecu map fault that lead to over boost / low boost beeing detected ..... a new ecu update normally fixses the fault ... i think it was a recall of some kind so may be free if you ask your local dealer ...

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    Regular Member Innes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benny View Post
    what codes you get ? .. the 2.2's had a ecu map fault that lead to over boost / low boost beeing detected ..... a new ecu update normally fixses the fault ... i think it was a recall of some kind so may be free if you ask your local dealer ...
    Thats interesting. May be a trip to the dealer to ask.

    If i'm going into limp home mode at low-revs then surely its under boosting and needs a bit more oomph?

    The error code that keeps getting recorded is

    P1590 - Vacuum Solenoid Valve Circuit Open
    (04) - Present

    Hence why I orginally replaced the vacuum pipes and one of the solenoids thinking that would sort it out. I havent read the codes recently so may plug it in in my lunch-break and see if anything new has turned up.

  10. #10
    Regular Member LADmachining's Avatar
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    This code is suggesting that there is a problem being detected with the solenoid valve itself - more of an electrical problem rather than anything else,as it is suggesting 'circuit open'.

    Perhaps labouring the engine at low revs is causing vibration which is disturbing a poor electrical connection somewhere.

    If the fault was caused by a problem with the turbo actuator or part of the vacuum system causing an under-boost condition, then I would have thought you would see code P0234 - Boost Pressure Control Circuit Positive Deviation.

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