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Thread: Vectra CDTi 150 - Loss of Power

  1. #1
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    Default Vectra CDTi 150 - Loss of Power

    Hi folks, I'm hoping that someone might be able to point me in the right direction to try and sort out a problem on the Vectra. (It's a 2005 CDTi 150 SXi Estate with 36k on the clock)

    Last night travelling back along the motorway at an indicated 76 (Sat Nav said 70) in 6th with cruise on it started losing power and slowing down. Even planting the throttle didn't help much, either in 5th or 4th and it would only start to accelerate when I had changed down to 3rd in order to get the revs above 2500rpm.

    This continued until I could find an empty but of motorway to slow enough to get it into 2nd and accelerate until it hit the rev limiter where I held it for about 15-20 seconds which seemed to clear it up - the rest of the 150 miles home were no problem after that.

    It has intermitently had "hesitation" problems in the past (I think it had the injector mod done at 24 months by Vauxhall). I am sure that the EGR valve would probably benefit from a clean at some point as well (but that might be for warmer weather).

    It is mainly used by the missus for short journeys so I doubt she ever revs it despite me telling her that it will do it some good occasionally. Any idea's on possible causes please? No warning lights came on.


    Thanks in advance.

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    As you mentioned 2,500rpm, I have to ask is the swirl rod still in place? To check take the vanity cover off of the engine and look down behind the fuel rail (it's a light goldy/silver coloured tube). You will see a metal rod if it is lying there on it's side it has came off. If it is still attached then get someone to sit in the car and rev the engine past 3,000rpm (to make sure) while you watch to see if the bar moves. If it doesn't move then I would say that is your problem and the swirl drive module has given up. Use this documentation to locate of you have any problems (the documentation is for our engines). Also you don't need to to remove any mechanical/electricals to see it.

    http://www.ms-motor-service.com/xima...093_en_web.pdf

    As stated if the part is malfunctioned then the drive module and inlet manifold need to be replaced.

    Gazza4

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    Default

    Gazza,

    Many thanks for your quick reply. I have done as you say, and it appears that the rod has indeed fallen off. I'm sure that I can get something to extend my fingers far enough down to retrieve the rod (in fact I've already managed it), however it appears that the plastic cam on No.3 cyclinder is stuck solid (there is a bit of oily gunk around that and No.4). Would I be right in assuming that this is the swirl valve?

    If so, how do I go about releasing it? Is it easy or is it time to ask Mr Bank manager for a loan so the local garage can do it?

    Also, what is the likelyhood of any damage occuring if the vehicle is continued to be driven?

  4. #4
    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

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    no.3 should be solid mate - thats the one that the drive module is attached too - the others move from that via the bar

    Proper fix is a new inlet as stated and prices vary from £800 - £1200 at VX!!

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    Default

    In that case I shall try and put the rod back on then and hope for the best!

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

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    Unfortunatly mate - as its come off once it will do so pretty much straight away again.

    The underlying issue is the excess movement in the Swirl bearings, causing up and down movement on the swirls (what the rod connects too), this in turn wears the swirl tops and bar ball and socket joints.

    Also allows sook and gunk to get past the seals etc hence why you can see that on the top by the bar. Eventually the swirls block or sieze.

    People have done what they call a "£1 fix" where you by a bag of rubber washers and glue them to the bar to make a new 'socket' and then re-fit. This is a tighter grip and can hold.

    HTH

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    Vehicle : Golf 7

    Trim : GTD

    Engine : 2.0 TDI 184PS

    Year : 2014

    Mileage : 40000

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    Don't go messing about with it m8 you will need a new inlet manifold for sure. When you get a new one it is updated so shouldn't end up like the one you have.

    Gazza4

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    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazza4 View Post


    Don't go messing about with it m8 you will need a new inlet manifold for sure. When you get a new one it is updated so shouldn't end up like the one you have.

    Gazza4
    Exactly right.. Part was revised as it was a known defect!!!!

    People WILL argue weather you need a new drive module or not.. All I can say on that is that the actual manufacturers of the parts say you DO. That isnt saying that the old drive module wont work with a new manifold as it will, but Pierburg definatly say that they should both be replaced as the drive module learns the movement of the inlet..

    I did when I changed mine.

  9. #9
    Regular Member Dan_BlackSRi's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra SRi

    Trim : XP1

    Engine : 1.9 CDTi 150

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 66000

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    For such a big job anyway, its well worth changing the module at the same time for sure (I did).

  10. #10
    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

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    Absolutly agree Dan..

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