sorry, it's ANOTHER cdti 150 problem!

**Vectra Meldrew** · 14th December 2010, 21:04

The car is a 55plate 1.9cdti 150 AUTO
The problem is the revs drop and it trys to stall as soon as you engage drive or pull up in drive with foot on the brake. Although it starts and revs and ticks over perfectly it seems to not have enough power between about 800 and 1500 revs so as soon as you put it in drive it drops to about 400 and stalls. If you're quick you can pull away as soon as you put it in gear and once you're going it drives fine just slightly less power really low down (although it wont pull away uphill at all!). BTW no fault lights have come up since this started on saturday.
Ive been reading all the threads on here and checked everything i can think of:
*Replaced 3rd injector wiring with VX field remedy kit.
*Removed EGR and cleaned (although surprisingly it was already pretty clean and everything moved as it should)
*Removed throttle body, cleaned everywhere and re-soldered contacts just to be sure.
*Removed and cleaned boost sensor (very mucky).
*Checked swirl bar - still attached on all 4 and moves freely when revved.
*Replaced fuel filter.
*Replaced air filter.
*Checked 2 vacuum pipes on front for air leaks.
*Checked turbo pipes and intercooler for air leaks.
*Listened everywhere for funny noises like air escaping from a split pipe etc.
*Disconnected electrical plug from EGR and spanner light came on so plugged back in and light went out.
*Made up an aluminium blanking plate for inlet side of EGR and fitted, ran for 2 mins b4 spanner light came on.
And that's where i'm at now. Nothing has made the slightest difference. Have I forgotten anything?

**roswell** · 15th December 2010, 01:07

faulty crank shaft sensor at a guess or Throttle position sensor.

If you dont mind getting the spanners out their is a link on the HOW TO section on repairing the solder joints on the throttle always worth a shot for a easy / cheapish fix.

**Vectra Meldrew** · 15th December 2010, 03:24

Now that's something I never thought of -crank sensor. I did give the cam sensor a thought as I was checking the injector plug next to it but although both of these sensors have caused problems on previous vauxhalls I've owned, it's always been a case of EML on and limp-mode, neither of which I've got in this case.
I've soldered joints on throttle body already so no problem there.

**Vectra Meldrew** · 15th December 2010, 19:27

When I thought about this a bit more I came back to the conclusion I had when it first happened - gearbox or torque converter giving too much drag. The lack of power down low is the torque converter not slipping as it should so revs don't rise as normal and it stalls because the torque converter clutch is gone.
So took it to an autobox specialist this afternoon for a diagnostic scan and that confirmed it - Torque converter Clutch inoperative!

Also found another fault in the autobox so it's booked in for friday for a new torque converter and autobox valvebody. Likely to cost a fortune but at least I've got no worries with all the other parts I've checked, cleaned, or renewed in the last few days. Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones with a perfectly running CDTi 150 engine!!

**Derek Mc** · 15th December 2010, 19:41

Sorry to hear your tale of woes, this is a real shame what mileage has she done to need a new T/C and Valvebody?

As for the engine, there are plenty fine runners all the more with the education we get on here,,, touches large chunk of Oak,,,,,

**Vectra Meldrew** · 15th December 2010, 20:51

Mileage is only 183,000 - so barely run in yet!

**Grumpy1954** · 15th December 2010, 21:46

As a temporary solution, you could try the two feet driving technique, hold her on left foot on footbrake, right foot build revs up, then engage drive - just be very careful how many revs you use.
It does say in the handbook never to do above, but if tickover not enough to keep engine run would get you home.